Pellets?

Post by **hornmeister2000** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 2:35 pm

Well yes he did, but apparently the valves were knackered anyway. However, the symptom was that one of the plugs had gone black and wasn't firing. He told me that was because the valve was gone, but now I come to think of it, that's exactly the same symptom as when my piston rings went. How DO you know if the valves are gone? Could the black plug have been an early symptom of the rings wearing? Is it possible my valves were OK? I'd only done £100k at the time.

It's OK now, cuz I've had the whole engine reconditioned, but that was the same price as I paid for the valves a year ago (somewhere else). I'm really annoyed that he didn't tell me then to get the engine reconditioned rather than me having to pay twice...

Any ideas anyone?

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 2:47 pm

if the bottom of the engine is weak and the head is overhauled or replaced, then this will increase the wear on the pistons, rings, etc.

I think that statement answers itself, if the engine has done a reasonable mileage how much longer will it last ?

if a car's been driving for a long time on leaded, a 'lead memory' will have built up, effectively cussioning the valve seats for a while even if it's run on unleaded

That is very true and the valve seats only really suffer at over 50mph, we have a branch member who does around 5,000 miles a year and 3 years ago he went over to unleaded petrol with a well USED engine 50,000ish since last rebuild and felt that rather than fit a replacemnt head he would juct run it and see, and when it goes he would replace all at once, which is the same as the route you are taking excapt that he is not even using an additive just altered timing, and so far so good including the M.O.T. last year (Germany I think )

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Sep 04, 2003 2:57 pm

How DO you know if the valves are gone?

On a Moggie just do a compression test and just the the results are
150, 150,75,150. Obviously one is down on compression, if you squirt a bit of oil in the plug hole and re test and it stays the same it is almost 100% a head/valve problem, if it improves to say 125 you know you have ring problems.
The other thing that happens is smoke on start up that soon valve guides but the valve stem seals can cause this as well.
All this does really is give you an idea if you will get away with a head overhaul or you need a complete rebuild

Sorry I did not put this with the ealier post but work got in the way of the reply and a couple of other posts sneaked in first.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Fri Sep 05, 2003 4:35 pm

One other tip - keep the bottle in a plastic bag in hot weather, or let some air out of it or something cuz mine expanded in that hot weather in August and leaked over the carpet!!!

Mine too - That's the only complaint I have about Valvemaster tho.
It leaked into the glovebox liner before dripping on the mat, then spilling onto the carpet..
And it had plenty of air in it - it's partly the way it is designed as increase in temperature will cause the stuff to squirt into the dispensing chamber, and with more pressure on a really hot day it leaks out of the not so well fitting cap.

Maybe we should write to Castrol and suggest an improved bottle??

if anyone is still thinking about pellets, hopefully if they read from the first page on this thread right the way through and pick up on the fact there is no technical proof that pellets work - if they did work, the manufacturer would have independantly verified proof of it (THEY DO NOT)
Same goes with inline catalysts and magnets.

My Montego had a recessed valve seat - very similar sounding to your Meastro. I did most of the work myself and it cost about £100. It died the next summer, as i didn't like the car anymore and couldn't be bothered to fix the radiator fan so it overheated in traffic, and soon after it burnt it's nice new valves - Doh.
As I've said already - if you drive at low revs you are less likely to damage a valve seat. People can get away with unleaded on soft seats for many many years in this way.
If you drive hard and long periods of high revs you will damage a soft seat and this can even damage hard valve seats!

Post by **Cam** » Fri Sep 05, 2003 5:26 pm

Anyone had problems pouring the additive into the fuel filler without spilling some? Actually I can get it in, but I have to spill a small amount of fuel in washing it down into the tank from the filler neck.

Incidentally, I keep mine upright wedged in my tool / spares box in the boot so I have not had the leaking problem, but I'll make sure it's always upright now!

Post by **rayofleamington** » Fri Sep 05, 2003 5:35 pm

Initially I used to carefully wash the stuff down into the tank by pouring fuell carefully at the filler neck.
Then I remembered that the fuel spills everywhere anyway before it shuts off...
and if your tank is full, you'll wash the filler neck going around roundabouts (try it with the cap off - fuel comes out

)

Post by **Kevin** » Sat Sep 06, 2003 8:54 am

Cam & Ray could it be worth while getting a small funnel with as long a spout as possible this will help trickle it further down the fuel filler to start with

Post by **Chris Morley** » Sat Sep 06, 2003 10:49 am

Exactly what I've got Kevin - a small funnel, nearly 4 inches long bought for 99p from an autojumble. This ensures the additive gets into the fuel pipe as opposed to dribbling all over the base of the lock.

Post by **Cam** » Sat Sep 06, 2003 2:13 pm

That's not a bad idea! I'll see if I can pick one up.