An American Moggie ~ My '59 Morris Minor 1000 2-door saloon

[Fingolfin]

Ah, that makes more sense. Thanks Ian. I suppose I really needn't worry -- if the system leaks, then it leaks, and I'll address it when it does so -- and I've got plenty to worry about before then!

[irmscher]

Looking good enjoying following this thread Fin

[Fingolfin]

Thanks Irmscher! This morning I ordered $620 worth of parts (about $180 of that is shipping), including a right-front wing and rear seat belts and LOTS of small parts. That should arrive within the fortnight, I hope.

Yesterday I put in the front seat belts. They went in pretty smoothly. I used self-made reinforcing plates of about 12 gauge steel, which I hope is thick enough (the car is made of 18 gauge I think, so together that makes, what, 6 gauge?). They both function well, but I only put the driver's seat in, so the only one I could really test was the driver's.[frame][/frame]
Here I am wearing it. Don't mind the facial hair or the large belly (part of that is the shirt, which bunched up).[frame][/frame]It's just a little tight on the shoulder. I'm considering making some guide brackets to fix onto the rear of the seats.

[Fingolfin]

After the seatbelts, I began finishing work on the bonnet. That's been a very hard job and I haven't gotten anything crossed off the list since the seatbelts. But the bonnet is nearly done now.

First, of course, was panel beating and stripping. Once the paint was all off and the dents were most of the way out, it was Bondo time.[frame][/frame]I didn't bother getting every dent filled, but the dents I did fill were sanded perfectly smooth.

After that, I welded in the cross-piece, which was missing (luckily I had a spare), and then began priming. I used Rustoleum self-etching primer, which I sanded with 400 grit paper.[frame][/frame]
Then came the color coats. I only had one can of paint, which was sad, because I only got two thin coats on. But it looks almost good.[frame][/frame]
Once I have more paint (I ordered two cans), I'll finish the color coats, sanding with 400 then 620 grit to get a mirrory finish. Then I'll apply two coats of clear.

[Fingolfin]

I had an unexpected surprise this morning -- my huge order of parts came! So lots of progress. In fact, six items were crossed off the list today (for a total of 80 this summer, of 124 til test driving).

Here's the new wing. Of course, the shipping paint has to come off, and the wing repainted in Mog's maroon.[frame][/frame]
And here the wing is partially mounted on Mog -- some slight adjustment necessary, and some welding to take Mog's sidelights.[frame][/frame]
The repainted (and powder-coated) and reassembled frontispiece and grille. It'll be mounted sometime soon...I may order new upright front-of-inner-wing rubbers beforehand.[frame][/frame]
Here you can see the bonnet release mechanism connected; I had had to order a new clip for this spring, and a new big spring for the front. Does anyone know if this anti-rattle spring is connected in the right spots?[frame][/frame]
The handbrake cables were easy to connect, but I have to adjust them at the handbrake itself, and I'm unsure of how to do it.[frame][/frame]
Finally, I undertook a retrofitting project -- windshield washers! I had a classic manual-pump Tudor system in my mounds of spare parts, and decided to fit it to Mog. The bottle and bracket went in easily, though I need the Tudor sticker:[frame][/frame]
The new jet came from ESM, and fitted in the center of what I like to call the screen hearth.[frame][/frame]
The spray pattern is hard to get right...mostly it shoots on the center of the screen.[frame][/frame]

[chickenjohn]

-snip-
Then came the color coats. I only had one can of paint, which was sad, because I only got two thin coats on. But it looks almost good.[frame][/frame]
Once I have more paint (I ordered two cans), I'll finish the color coats, sanding with 400 then 620 grit to get a mirrory finish. Then I'll apply two coats of clear.

To get a "mirrory" finish, you will need more than just a coat or two of etch primer. Several coats (from a can, less from spray gun) of filler primer, lots of sanding with a guide coat up to 800 grit paper, then after the top coat, wet sand with 1200 grit, then 1500 and 2000 before polishing with a cutting compound (In the UK we use G3 and G10).

The graded you mentioned are too coarse (unless the US uses a different abrasive paper grade system???)

Oh and anti rattle spring attaches to the small hole in the cowl panel next to the two small nuts and bolts.

keep the updates coming!

[Fingolfin]

Thanks for that John. The US does indeed use a subtly different system -- grit grades are the same up to 220, but then begin to deviate logarithmically so that our 1000 grit is equivalent to your 2000 (assuming Britain uses the European ISO 6344 standard). And I'm not actually out for 'mirrory'...I should make clear, I don't expect it to be perfect. It can be like a mirror when, in five years, I have a professional do the job; but for now, I'll be satisfied with what I can do with my meager abilities. I've found painting much more difficult than mechanical or body work (about the same as electrical).

[Fingolfin]

I only accomplished one thing on Mog today (yesterday wore me out!), and that was finishing the windshield washer system. The pump now has a lovely homemade alumin(i)um bracket to sit in:[frame][/frame]
And it still works!

[Fingolfin]

Just an idea I've had. Mog has the earlier round Smiths heater with only two ducts (onto the windshield), and I was thinking it would be nice to have two further ducts (onto the front seat people's feet) and make a shutoff door so that one could choose between having heat blow at the screen, or the feet, or both. This is the design I came up with:[frame][/frame]
I'm pretty sure it'll work (I have two spare vents), but I need to purchase rubber piping and material to make the door.

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

It would work in theory, but in reality the little heater struggles to put even enough up to clear the windscreen. I keep thinking of making some sort of cover to go over the front of the heater to try and direct all the blow up to the screen. In my green car 1963 which also has a round heater and has the white cardboard type of cover, I sealed up all round the back on this with old sponge to stop the heat going out to the bulkhead and you can put a cloth or sponge in at the base to get it all up to the screen.

This is the cover I mean that attached to the parcel shelf

http://www.newtoncomm.co.uk/cars/morris ... ucts-2707/

[Fingolfin]

You make a very good point there, David. I suppose I'll connect it up the way it's supposed to be -- and perhaps on Stiltzkin I'll put in a real good aftermarket heater. Anyway, you'll be excited about this progress: the bonnet is done![frame][/frame]
Additionally, I've been working on soundproofing. The firewall is done, as are the side-panels (where the rear doors would go, were Mog a four-door); next is the toeboard and the floorpan, then under the bonnet, once it's fitted to the car.[frame][/frame]
Tomorrow I finish the soundproofing, and then begin on the new front wing, and (I hope) the bonnet will be dry enough to mount.

[ASL642]

Amazing what a good coat of paint does to a part. Just make sure you don't chip the edges whilst fitting. Make sure the paint has really hardened and wrap a small soft piece of cloth around the edge (especially at the bulkhead corners as these can get knocked when fitting the hinges).

[Fingolfin]

Thanks for that tip, Lou. We'll be sure to be careful with it! I did accomplish one other thing last night, and that was putting shiny material in the sidelights and rear lights to accentuate their brightness. Here's one of the sidelights.[frame][/frame]It's mirrored paper with sticky backing, and worked quite well for this purpose.

[Fingolfin]

The bonnet and its chrome bits are mounted. It closes and locks effectively, and its position seems to be adjusted nicely (though we'll know when both front wings are properly mounted).[frame][/frame]
The paint has got just the slightest bit of orange peel, but it's probably the best results I can get at home, it being my first try.[frame][/frame]
The aluminum blades are in primer, but it's getting too humid to paint -- and I'm almost out of the body color again.[frame][/frame]

[Fingolfin]

I did finish the blades, but I haven't got clips so I can't mount them. However, I continued working on soundproofing, and I wanted to share how smooth I got the insulation on the gearbox cover...it looks almost vacuum molded. [frame][/frame]

[Fingolfin]

I finished the soundproofing today -- now it's above the headlining, under the bonnet, and on the bulkhead, the toeboard, the floorpan (including the area under the rear seat), the leading and trailing edges of the rear seat box, where the rear doors would be if Mog were a four-door, the gearbox cover, and the four wheel domes where they project into the interior. It'll be quiet inside! [frame][/frame]There will also be soundproofing on the doors, under the door cards, before the car is roadworthy.

[MarkyB]

What are you using for sound proofing material, very neat and tidy application.

[Fingolfin]

Thanks Marky! I am actually using a roll of spare carpeting from a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, which is dense enough to be good soundproofing, but light enough to be manipulable. It also has excellent wicking properties.

[Fingolfin]

I had another go at assembling the front body panels today. Still can't mount them permanently -- my inner-wing-to-frontispiece rubber strips have yet to arrive -- but I am getting them lined up and ready to go.[frame][/frame]It's starting to look really good! Almost like a real car. Just have to get that new wing finished...

[DaisyMayFozz]

That Bonnet is real nice, puts my Paintwork to shame!