Engine steady

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Bill_qaz
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Re: Engine steady

Post by Bill_qaz »

Sleeper wrote: Thu Aug 06, 2026 9:31 pm Slotting the bracket makes it easier to remove , just have to loosen the nuts, not remove them completely , the rod is not horizontal but the brackets have been angled to sit at 90 degrees to the rod.. Sorry but there is no metal to metal contact..
The cylinder head bracket is that way to allow better access to the nuts/rubbers.

John ;-)
Understood so its your own version, not the grumpy kit. :tu1:
Magnets, do you cut open the filter to check as yours is a spin on?
Regards Bill
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svenedin
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Re: Engine steady

Post by svenedin »

The Grumpy engine steady kit has a new bracket that is attached using the spare bolt holes (x2) next to the Armstrong damper. It is very solid and I believe it was developed for cars where the original mounting point had rusted out or cracked or was never fitted in the first place. The only issue I have with it is it does not look original. Other than that it is an excellent piece of kit which is actually superior to the original bracket.

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engin ... it-p830094

As to magnets on the oil filter there are commercially available kits for this but for what they are, they are very expensive.


Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
philthehill
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Re: Engine steady

Post by philthehill »

The BMC engine steady is an after thought by BMC and was not fitted to the original 'A' Series engine so even the BMC steady could be considered as not original.
I had a Mr Grumpy's engine steady kit on my Ser 2 and it worked well as a replacement for the cracked body mount. The body mount was not fully thought through by BMC and that is why the body around the battery box suffers from cracking. If they had used the two spare holes (originally used for mounting the early type damper. There are another two behind the Armstrong damper) for the body bracket then there would be no problems with cracking.

59Elva
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Re: Engine steady

Post by 59Elva »

My previous pickup and sedans had steady rods or evidence of broken or rusted out attachments on the firewall. I don’t see any such evidence on my current 1275 powered ‘59 pickup. Should it have a steady rod and what are the consequences of not having one?
Bill B. ‘59 Pickup USA
Sleeper
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Re: Engine steady

Post by Sleeper »

Bill
" Magnets, do you cut open the filter to check as yours is a spin on? "

No but when I do change the oil filter , I move the ( Neodymium ) magnets to the new one...

P.S. Also have one in the sump plug ( Belt and Braces )

Phil

My bracket cracked off , so replaced it with Grumpy-type bracket.

Thank you..

John
philthehill
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Re: Engine steady

Post by philthehill »

59Elva
I have run 1275cc and 1400cc 'A' Series engines in a Minor both with and without the engine steady bar. It was soon apparent that the 'A' Series needed the engine steady bar. Without the engine steady bar the engine would judder and move excessively especially on rapid standing starts.
You can see my engine steady bar in the photo I posted above.
The body mount bracket was welded to the damper cross member way back in the 1970's and has stood the test of time.
I can highly recommend the Mr Grumpy's engine steady bar. One of the best after market conversions you can do.
Phil

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