Oil leakage

[bmcecosse]

The compression pressure are very low (even though it's cold ) - worth pulling the pistons to examine the rings I think. Obviously the 'can' being blocked wasn't helping! But I guess it would become blocked due to excessive amounts of oil/gunge being pushed into it by the worn engine. That little cover would show you nothing of any significance - you are supposed to remove the crank first I guess... the oil pressure spring doesn't affect crankcase pressure - you can either 'pack' it with a short 1/4" UNF bolt slipped inside the spring at the cover end - or just buy a new spring.

[Theo_NL]

Googling around I found on testing the compression pressure:
a. I should have done the test with the throttle full open, i didn't
b. Do the test with a bit of oil in the cilinder: pressure improves - piston rings are causing the low pressure. If not - cause is somewhere else.
Worth doing the test again?

[MarkyB]

You might as well test again, do test a then test b.
Have you charged up the battery you are using for the tests?

[bmcecosse]

Yes - throttle open and ALL spark plugs removed -I see you still have them IN in that picture. I do like the engine 'stand' !

[Theo_NL]

And the results are....
Throttle open, all spark plugs removed: 125/125/125/125
With oil: 145/150/135/150

So, am I up to some new experience of taking the engine apart?

[bmcecosse]

It's marginal considering it's cold... Since the engine is out anyway - I would be lifting the head and dropping the sump - and inspecting the rings/bores and bearings.... But this may ALL be about your blocked up canister - which we would have told you to check/clean long before you got to the stage of taking the engine out!!

[Theo_NL]

Hi bmc,
Thanks for your help.
I decided not to lift the head and inspect the bores/pistons. I do not feel comfortable doing that
Will put it together again and see if the leakage is gone (or at least significantly less).

I will go for my other concern: the oil pump. According to the manual it should give 20 psi at running idle, but my oil indicator switches on when running idle (indicating less than 8 psi?).[frame][/frame]

I will order a new one now it is easy to change.
And add an oil pressure gauge.

[MarkyB]

The reason for low oil pressure is not usually the pump but wear in the bearings, main and big end.
Just replacing the pump wont fix it.

[bmcecosse]

Exactly! It's not the pump (which is a later 'good' one...) It IS worn bearings... Drop the sump and let's see the centre main - and a big-end.... Oil pressure gauge is certainly a GOOD idea..

[Theo_NL]

Starting with oil leakage an ending with a low-oil-pressure-fix seems a bit confusing. I will start a new topic where I can keep you informed. And you all can give me some advise: I need it!

[bmcecosse]

I think generally your engine is in poorish condition - and needs at least a 'refresh' - glaze bust the bores and new rings + new main and big-end bearings shells.... or a complete overhaul with re-bore/new pistons and crank regrind + timing gears/chain/new oil pump and general head overhaul.

[katy]

Starting with oil leakage an ending with a low-oil-pressure-fix seems a bit confusing.

I would suggest you reassemble with the cleaned up breathers, and then see how it drives and if it still leaks a lot of oil.
Then you'll know if the engine needs more work.
The oil pressure gauge is a good idea.

[bmcecosse]

The oil pressure is known to be poor (light on..) so may as well be investigated and rectified if possible.

[Theo_NL]

I took the challenge and lifted the head , removed the pistons. Below the pictures. All pistons show scratches on the side (both sides). The one in the picture is the worst. If I look down the cilinder, scratches appear only in the 'bottom'. It looks like the whole cranck has been out of position (in length direction, to front or to back). I see no uneven wear in the big end bearings.

All piston rings seems in very good shape, top of piston also good, no damage at the top edge. Two pistons had some alu scraped material in the lowest piston ring (oil scraper?).

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[bmcecosse]

That piston appears to have been partly 'seized' at some point - you 'may' be able to save it......although I'm not at all confident. No wonder it was blowing oil out !! It's possible it was seized before that set of rings was fitted. It looks like the engine was 'refreshed' at some point -with new rings and big-end shells - and that later oil pump fitted.

[Theo_NL]

Brought the engine block and head to a refurbishing company here in NL. They will measure all and come up with some advise this Saturday. Will probably fit all necessary new parts. New bearings, pistons with piston rings are not that expensive. I will go for the max solution, want to enjoy the car for the next 50 years, being close to early retirement .

Will post the findings soon.

[bmcecosse]

Early retirement - and 50 years use... Glad to see you are an Optimist!!

[MarkyB]

Good plan, even I wouldn't reuse those pistons, they have had a very hard life

[Theo_NL]

The pistons will retire, that is for sure

[Theo_NL]

Results of measuring:
Cilinder (top to bottom, max values): 64,79/64,61/64,59 mm + minor grooves
Piston: 64,45 mm
Crankshaft: Big end bearing: Oval 41,21/41,28 mm + grooves; Main bearing: 44,39/44,46 mm + serious grooves.
Camshaft OK, camshaft bearing bad
Head: All valves show leakage
Not sure I got the right guy for the work, but he offered Euro 1100,- (excl VAT, excl. parts) for the grinding, milling, reassemble the head, etc. Total would be incl. VAT and parts around Euro 1600,-.
I found online a new (refurbished) engine for Euro 1000,- at a well known supplier with 18 months or 18000 miles warranty.

What do you think? Worth do the repair or book a short trip to UK to collect my new engine?