Engine heat shield/baffle plate

[philthehill]

Ufudu
You are right in that the black painted ones do attract the heat. Though you can always strip the paint away and repaint in a light or alloy colour.
All of the original equipment carb shields that I have seem i.e. MG Midget, Riley 1.5, 4/72, Mini Cooper etc, etc have been painted black.
Even the replacement original equipment (OE) ones from the likes of Mini Spares are painted black.
You can get a pimped up stainless steel version from Mini Spares Pt No: MSSK1005 which you can cut down as suggested in my post above.
As regards the Grumpy's heat shields I am certain that they originally came in aluminium finish paint. Note that the float chamber shield extends under the float chamber as do the OE heat shields.
The problem with light paint or ally shields is that they get very dirty unless regularly cleaned/polished so I would suggest that that is why all OE heat shields were painted black.
Unless you have a compound bending machine I would also suggest that it would be easier to buy the ESM kit and re-paint especially regarding the pump uplift pipe cover.
As regards fitting a thermal sleeve to the fuel pump uplift pipe see: http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/heat-insulation and then go to thermal sleeve.

[moggylowlight]

I fitted an aluminium heat shield between carb & inlet manifold to my lowlight and covered the petrol pipe to pump with heat reflective fire proof tape due to fuel evaporation which cured the problem.
Interesting to note: series II minor 1000 had tie plates holes, extra air flow? MM's had no holes and a cover on the front near side shock absorber as the exhaust too close and boiled the shock oil. Austin A30 mechanical pump on the Block, Mini push type SU pump on the rear subframe, Triumph stag twin SU in the boot, was this due to no room under the bonnet or fuel issue?
When NWL 576 was restored by the apprentices why did they fit minor 1000 tie plates see pictures on MM register.
Questions ....Questions
But the heat shield fixed my problem, so if you move the pump, pipe whatever and it sorts it good...


http://www.classicandperformancecar.com ... risation.h...

[Mckorkins]

All quite useful stuff to absorb again, so thanks for the input.

I really cannot hear the fuel pump when the car is running: I must be a bit mutton jeff! I can, of course, hear it having turned on the ignition and before the car is started. With the hood down and in traffic you've got to have acute sense of hearing to pick up on these things, which I've obviously not got! Also pumping the throttle was a spontaneous action, as I was not exactly expecting the Moggie to try and stall. Whether it encouraged the pump to deliver more fuel into the float chamber I cannot say, but it seemed to work nevertheless and the car kept going - just.

It's interesting that Grumpy's heat shield appears to be painted black, which I would have thought would be an attraction to heat. I fabricated mine out of aluminium. The only tools I used were a good vice and a neoprene hammer, which took care of the bending element of the work, followed by a bit of hacksawing and then finishing the profile with files. This soon did the trick and, purely by accident, it turned out to be fairly close in design to the commercially-available one! Cleaning the heat shield won't be a problem in this case, as I try and keep things spotless under the bonnet anyway and it will be no effort to wire-wool the appendage occasionally.

[dudload]

just in case anyone refers back to this thread for sleeving to combat the vapours - the site above seems quite expensive and have linked to ebay for better value. (im assuming the fuel line is 5mm diameter, but will check when I get home)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-Fire-Slee ... G5H0x7BQdg