Well Mr. Calimorris, if you were not confused before then I bet you are now.
A couple of measurements, each spline on the torsion bar adjusts the height by 1.25 in, each hole on the vernier plate adjusts by 0.25 in.
Loosely assembling is just bolting the top link in place and the bottom link to the front and rear wishbones. Do not bother with the tie rod or the nut and bolt in the middle of the wishbones. Lower to the ground (with the wheel on!) bounce the wheel arch a few times and compare.
torsion bar lever/torsion bar adjustment
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Re: torsion bar lever/torsion bar adjustment
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Re: torsion bar lever/torsion bar adjustment
So, tell me if i have done this the complete wrong way. i attached the back of the torsion rod to the crossmember, then set the splines so that the top pivot pin was about an inch below the top arm. i then jacked up the lower arm, and bolted the assembly to the top arm. Then i went back to the cross member, pried the torsion bar lever from against the floor to one of the upper-mid range holes in the bracket. Does this give it too much, or too little tension? this is the first time i have encountered a torsion bar so i don't know how finicky of a device it is.
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Re: torsion bar lever/torsion bar adjustment
If you disconnect the lower suspension arm from the swivel pin then lower the arm so that the load is off the torsion bar, you will be able to move the rear arm to whichever hole you want, once you have broken the rust seal
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Re: torsion bar lever/torsion bar adjustment
Sounds crazy.... no pry bars are involved....... Leave the rear arm alone - make all the adjustments on the front arm splines......


