synthetic paint

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 3:15 pm

That's a good price for the paint. Does it spray just like celly ?

Post by **Redmoggy** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 4:55 pm

Not sure about this particular make but the last bit of synth i painted was a pain. Took forever to dry and refused to be buffed to remove dirt etc. Aplication was similar to celly but much more sticky. At £15 a litre i would rather stick with celly.

Rod

Post by **RussLCV** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 7:31 pm

You can mix hardner with it now makes it dry quicker but ideally use in teh warm weather dries easily in 45 mins nice and shiny too!

Post by **dustyfog** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 7:44 pm

if you hot sprayed synthetic then you don't need to bother about thinners. just for info ici 383 synthetic retails for about £75 for 2.5l i have been spraying both synthetic and 2pk for years when i was a sprayer. the only down side to synthetic finish is the lenght of the colour retension, not being able to t cut li like 2pk or celly, but ideal for a quick flash over. but it costs a fortune to over coat it if you needed to re do the same car in 2pk as it cost me when i did molly

Post by **dustyfog** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:10 pm

there is one thought . i did write a thred about spraying synthetic earlier . synthetic is a commercial vehicle paint and is better rubbed down using a da.Phil63 you need to ask jewel paint for a pds sheet
p= product
d= data
s= sheet
this info gives you all you need for each type of material you use, mixing ratios flow cup speed etc . synthetic can be mixed 3 ways 1 by mixing stick thickness depends on each individual paint manufacturer 2 by flow cup usualy ford bs4 type 3 hot spray application , the latter i perfer as it goes on thinner but dries thicker and flows better. BMC as for spraying the same as celly you only need to put a tack coat of synthetic followed by a good coat, double headed if you wanted to, as with celly you have to put on 5 6 7 coats etc to get a build and then you usualy colour sand. synthetic is a two hit wonder paint that cannot be colour sanded as you can't buff the shine back.

Post by **Redmoggy** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 9:02 pm

So,even if i ignore my previous experience. Its not particually cheap not particually easy to spray it does not hold its colour can not be cut and polished and costs a fortune to paint over. So what are the good points?

Rod

Post by **dustyfog** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:42 pm

Redmoggy wrote:So,even if i ignore my previous experience. Its not particually cheap not particually easy to spray it does not hold its colour can not be cut and polished and costs a fortune to paint over. So what are the good points?

Rod

Hi rod, can i firstly say, when spraying a car people really need to think what is the end result they want to achieve. using celly or 2pk needs more initial preperation all the way through the process priming ,wet flatting ,priming, flatting remasking etc as where synthetic just needs a quick rub down with a DA sander with either a 180 or 240 grit sanding disc blown off, masked, panel wiped, tacked off, primed, quick rub down with 600 or 800 wet n dry used dry, re tacked then top coated. so is a lot quicker and is cheaper.I think i paid £200 for my 5 liters 2pk paint inc hardner and thinner and vat you can paint a car in a day with synthetic

the reason why it cost me a fortune to spray molly was in the preperation, the previous owner had just blown in arear's with synthetic so when i came to rub down the car i was getting an edge that would not feather out and it would have stuck out like a sore thumb.All the arears where it was blown in had to be virtually stripped back to get rid if the synthetic . eg i used 155 6" 180 grit discs and 60 80grit discs just to get rid of the synthetic from start to finish the car was off the road for a month
here is a picture of my van i used to own i sprayed it using i c i synthetic and hot sprayed the top coat hope this hellps dusty

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:27 pm

Thanks for the tips Dusty!
I'm thinking back many(40!) years now - i'm sure there was a 'wonder' paint came out about then that was very shiny and good for a 'blow over' - just can't remember it's name now - but it is probably this 'synthetic'. My mate used it on his Mini - and it was a huge problem to get it to dry - ended up covered in dust and flies!

Post by **dustyfog** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:27 pm

bmcecosse wrote:Thanks for the tips Dusty!
I'm thinking back many(40!) years now - i'm sure there was a 'wonder' paint came out about then that was very shiny and good for a 'blow over' - just can't remember it's name now - but it is probably this 'synthetic'. My mate used it on his Mini - and it was a huge problem to get it to dry - ended up covered in dust and flies!

your welcome, bmc that paint from 40 years ago might of been synobel lol. i might write another thread as there seems to be a lot of interst in spraying synthetic. all the pit falls how to get rid of silacone contamination, how to deal with runs and sags etc. what do you think ?? on the plus side bmc synthetic can also be brushed on.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:12 pm

I suggest you go ahead with that thread Dusty! I just wish i could remember that name - it's really annoying me now! I have no intention of brush painting (or hand painting!) when I have a perfectly good compressor in the garage!

Post by **Redmoggy** » Wed Nov 12, 2008 1:14 am

Cheers Dusty. You are right it does depend what you want from a paint job. I guess i just find that celly makes far more sense. I do use a 2K high build primer though. Real easy to do. Key the car or repair with 120 grit 2-3 coats of high build primer and guide coat. Flat with 800 used wet. Mix the paint with 2K thinner 1 good coat mixed 50/50 followed by 2-3 really wet coats. Lovelly shine out of the gun and if it does fade a quick cut and your away. Just my own preference i guess.

Rod

Ratbag · Post by **Ratbag** » Wed Nov 12, 2008 1:15 pm

Re-paint anyone?
Applied by brush - remember once doing an Austin 1100 with it - two tone red & white IIRC!!!

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:15 pm

[quote="dustyfog i might write another thread as there seems to be a lot of interst in spraying synthetic. all the pit falls how to get rid of silacone contamination, how to deal with runs and sags etc. what do you think ?? on the plus side bmc synthetic can also be brushed on.[/quote]
Excellent idea! I'd really love to know how to deal with sags in synthetic, other than wiping off immediately and making the best of whats left! Also getting rid of silicon contamination!
From my experience the real plus point is being able to hang a good thick coat on which dries as shiny as when wet and covers up imperfections much better than celly.