Normal brake bleeding problems :-(

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paulhumphries
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Post by paulhumphries »

[/quote]
What is a Mityvac[/quote]

It's a hand operated vacuum pump.
http://www.mityvac.com/
Has numerous uses but the main one I find is for bleeding brakes.

Paul Humphries
RogerRust
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Post by RogerRust »

I think the problem lies in the rear cylinder design and arragement.

I know this has been discussed several times but here are some pic to illustrate the problem

This is the path the fluid takes when bleeding the rear cylinder.

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There is only a small hole in the cylinder;

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My solution is to fill the cylinder with brake fluid just prior to bleeding like this;

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I hope thats not teaching my grandma to suck eggs, but I thought it might be usefull
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paulhumphries
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Post by paulhumphries »

Hooray - managed to bleed them at last.
In the end just perservered with the two person method.
I don't think I've ever used so much fluid to bleed a cars brakes before !

Paul Humphries.
picky
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Post by picky »

im having some trouble with bleeding the brakes, im going to leave it overnight with one of the rear wheels on an axle stand, im hoping air in the system will try and float to the top, and gather at this wheel.

Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

I just open the nipple with tube attached in a bottle - and then drink a cup of coffee. It bleeds through all by itself. just keep topping up.
Have you modified the brakes in any way - fitted a servo ?
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picky
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Post by picky »

the brakes are standard on the rear, and wolseley 1500 on the front, no servo. Reason I am having trouble I think is because I have rebuilt the master cylinder at the same time as fitting the front brakes, so lots of air in the system I imagine.

Picky
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

I've never had a problem using a crow bar or stout screw driver. There may be something about the saloons that makes that impossible, I guess...
nope - it can be a total doddle on saloons too :D
The only tricky one I had was when I tried to lever against an 18" piece of wood on the floor pan right next to the chassis leg, but the floor pan was a bit wobbly :o

Regarding a soft pedal... I would slack off all the brake adjusters as much as possible - this allows the pistons to move and the fluid into and out of the cylinders may allow you to disturb (and hopefully remove) any trapped air.
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2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
dunketh
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Post by dunketh »

You can avoid any possibility of air being drawn back in past the bleed nipple threads if you do it the tedious (two person) way.
You mean theres another method?

Admittedly I cheat by using a tube with a one way valve in it (basically a ball bearing). They can blow but they can't suck! :lol:
What would Macgyver do..?
Image
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

They can blow but they can't suck!
the Minor bleed nipple will allow air back down the threads. This makes the one way valve a disadvantage as fluid can't come up the pipe so any suction will draw in air via the bleed screw thread.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
alanworland
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Post by alanworland »

When I bled my series mm I used a wd40 squirt tube inserted into the vent hole in the filler cap, I then applied about 8 psi air pressure to this, then went underneath and unsrewed the bleed screws one at a time until I had no bubbles (taking care not to empty the master cylinder) then lock up. No pumping, 'up' 'down' or 'ok up' 'ok down' works for me have used similar on various vehicles with dreat success, it might require a bit of making up of fitting(s) to get the air to the master cylinder top but well worth a try.
Orkney
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Post by Orkney »

Good idea that - wonder if its worth getting a spare filler cap and trying to wangle a car tyre valve to it using whatever handy. Sure would be a useful thing to have.
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alex_holden
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Post by alex_holden »

That's basically a poor man's Eezibleed, the advantage of the Eezibleed being that it automatically keeps the master cylinder topped up.
ImageImage
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Orkney
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Post by Orkney »

Ah yes - but I'm poor :-) besides making things is fun. (nocked up a functioning 3ft wind turbine yesterday in 2 hours from just scrap)
Did wonder about the level as its a small cylinder, guess ive always confused an easybleed (never seen one) with those pipe jobbies with teh bearing one way valve on that goes on the bleed nipple.
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dunketh
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Post by dunketh »

the Minor bleed nipple will allow air back down the threads. This makes the one way valve a disadvantage as fluid can't come up the pipe so any suction will draw in air via the bleed screw thread.
I've not had this problem myself, although all the pistons on the car are new ones I've put in. Maybe the newer ones have a finer thread?

I do tighten them up when the pedal is in the 'down' position though, purely because I'm paranoid about any air ingres.
What would Macgyver do..?
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