My Engine Rebuild

[bmcecosse]

For a competition engine of your value I totally agree. I suspect the original plugs would be inserted with a special swaying tool that would expand them into the holes.... Not so sure inexpert/home insertion will be so secure.... It would worry me! The screw in plugs would be my choice - but will need correct drilling/tapping etc

[James k]

I've just fitted the new valve guides. They went in just as easily as the old ones came out! I ordered the inlet guides from Mini Spares and had them turned down to the right length. I got the standard Minor ones for the exhausts. The valves fit smoothly so the guides don't need reaming. I'm going to have a go at lapping them in by hand to decide whether the seats need recutting or not. With the top hat seals, do they push right down into the second groove or just the top one?

Thanks,
James

[bmcecosse]

Just the top one will be fine.

[philthehill]

I am not sure what valve guides you have fitted but the Mini spares valve guides have only one grove.
Are you getting mixed up with the valve stems which can have up to three groves dependent upon valves, top caps and cotters used.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... ssic/valve guides.aspx|Back to search

The top hat seals do not fit as per the original Minor ones which fitted over the valve stem.
The top hat seals fit over the valve guide and the inside lip at the bottom of the seal fits into the valve guide groove.

A photo of the seals as you have fitted them would be appreciated.

[James k]

Those are the valve guides that I ordered. The ones I received look exactly the same except that they have two grooves. One the same as in that photo and one narrower groove further up. The seals I've got are these ones http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... o%20search .

The head and block are currently at the machine shop so I can't take a photo at the moment.

[philthehill]

James thanks for coming back to me.
The top hat seals fit in the groove (the bottom groove) as shown in the link photo.
I can find no reference to the extra valve guide groove on the Mini Spares web site.
Those Du Pont valve stem seal are the best you can get and I have them fitted to my 940 head.
Phil

[James k]

Hi,
Just an update on my progress. I've now finished the head. Valve guides replaced, skimmed, valves lapped in, painted and all put back together with the new oil seals. The lapping took AGES, the exhaust valves took at least an hour each! I've also fitted the new rings to the pistons, countersunk the screw holes for the duplex chain and painted everything that needs painting. I now just need to hone the cylinders and replace the oil gallery plugs then I can start putting everything back together Hopefully I can start that tomorrow and it will be back in the car soon.

I'll try to get some pictures up a bit later.

[panky]

I ordered the seals and guides from Mini Spares and these too have the extra groove near the top of the guide but not as deep as the lower groove.

[James k]

I've just remembered that the engine number plate was removed when the head was skimmed. The plate was cut off (and badly damaged) and the rivets were simply skimmed over. I'd like to have an ID plate ideally but don't want to have to re drill the holes in the block for the rivets. Can you get stick on ones made up?

[philthehill]

It is easy to drill out the rivets as they do not go to the bottom of the hole and are usually softer than the block so the drill is not subject to wandering as it would do if the rivets were good quality steel.
Use a good / powerful vacuum cleaner (switched on of course) adjacent to the drilling to pick up and remove any swarfe generated.
Also coat the drill in grease to catch any wayward swarfe.
Be careful when the drill goes into the void below the rivet as the drill can break as it pushes through the bottom of the rivet.
It helps if the remains of the rivet are knocked to the bottom of the hole in the block before drilling - that hole can then be used as a pilot.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MINI- ... 27f9a800b1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini- ... 28074b5abe

And you can get the plates, rivets and plates stamped/embossed (from the correct side if required) here:-

http://www.retrominisltd.co.uk/index.ph ... cts_id=217

Good luck.
Phil

[James k]

I've now honed the bores, given the block and thorough clean and fitted new oil gallery plugs. I loctited them in and they were a very tight fit so I don't think they'll come out. Everything is ready for reassembly now so with any luck I should have most of the engine together tomorrow!

[Declan_Burns]

Here's another source of engine plates. I bought one and they look good if not somewhat expensive. They do not ask for registration documents for engine plates.
http://www.minimail.co.uk/chassis-vin-plates/
Regards
Declan

[James k]

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll get a plate made up at some point.

I've now honed the bored and assembled the block and got the sump back on. The crank turned freely and there was 3 thou end float with the new thrust washers. Getting the pistons in was a bit tricky but they all went in without hitting them in the end so I assume I can't have snapped any rings. I do have one rather big problem though, I've snapped a bolt off in the block One of the camshaft triangle plate bolts. It's sheared off flush with the block so I can't grab it at all. How can I remove it?

[Declan_Burns]

You could try an easy out but they are not always successful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts
Can you post up a photo-maybe somebody else has a better suggestion. It would be a shame to have to dismantle everything again due to swarf if you have to drill it out.

Regards
Declan

[James k]

Is the hole open at the other side? If not then I could avoid getting swarf in the engine. I'll get a picture up.

[Declan_Burns]

I have just checked a 1275 block that I have on my bench and the holes are not open to the inside of the engine. I am not sure about the 1098. Check the other two holes and if they are not open you can assume the third one isn't either.

Declan

[James k]

I've checked the other ones and they're closed. If I tape up the other holes and use a hoover at the same time then I can be pretty certain that no swaf will enter the engine. So worst case, I have to drill it out. I assume that since it snapped so easily, the bolt isn't too hard to drill. It's such a small thing but it's so annoying. Everything was going so well and I would have had it finished by now. Oh well.

[les]

It would pay you to surround the stud area with masking tape, in a raised up fashion to keep anything from escaping when/if you drill it out, with the rest of the remaining area covered. Hopefully with the other two holes being blind the third one will be as well but be careful as this may not be the case. If you are not planning to do this job for a day or two I should be able to check the holes in a spare block that I have.

[les]

It would pay you to surround the stud area with masking tape, in a raised up fashion to keep anything from escaping when/if you drill it out, with the rest of the remaining area covered. Hopefully with the other two holes being blind the third one will be as well but be careful as this may not be the case. If you are not planning to do this job for a day or two I should be able to check the holes in a spare block that I have.

[philthehill]

James
Sorry to hear of your problem.
The set screw (bolt) is quite soft so you should have no problem drilling out the remains of the set screw. Do not press hard on the drill - let if find its own way down through the set screw but keep it vertical/parallel to the set screw axis.
Once you have drilled through the centre of the set screw press the tang (handle end) of a small file in the drilled hole and see if it will unscrew the remains of the bolt out.
As you have already had the set screw out it should come out quite easy.
Using a vacuum cleaner to suck up the swarfe/metal chips is a very good idea.
The 1/4" UNF set screw should only be nipped up at 6 - 8 ft lb.
Best of luck with the extraction.
Phil