Oil leakage

[bmcecosse]

Studs screw into 'open' holes - so yes there is a possibility of water leaking up the threads if not tight in the block. When fitting a 940 head, the pump has to be filed - but even with quite heavily skimmed small bore heads I've not seen contact with the pump - but certainly check !

[Theo_NL]

Thanks for the quick reply!
I checked the head for 'bypasses' from water canals to stud hole: nothing. Excellent condition of the head.
Checked the plug where the temp sensor could be fitted and the small adaptor for the short hose from head to block: All OK.

But alsio looks like an old pump so maybe not,did you fit the pump before the head,there is a bit of tolerence in the bolt hole on the head maybe just slackening the pump and realigning.

Yes it is an old pump, and I fitted the head first, but will check later to be sure.

Amazing the speed of reply here, thanks
A pity I cannot be online and do the dirty work at the same time

[bmcecosse]

I know one not far from me who has a computer and screen in his garage....and no - it's not me !

[taupe]

Hi

Looking at your first pic..could it be that the bypass hose is slightly too short and just leaking at the top connection..I think there is a slot in the screwed in connection which might be covered by the hose but not fully sealing when the clip is tightened?

Taupe

[Theo_NL]

Thanks for thinking with me, and problem solved: I could not find any clear cause, so I fitted a new gasket (one on the left at the pictures that I bought 12 years ago, marked with 'Made in England'). The faulty one I bought 2 months ago at a certain English supplier. It has no marks, so unclear where it came from.

Anyway, no leakage of antifreeze anymore. Up to next stage: get it running.

[bmcecosse]

Hopefully you used some grease this time...

[Theo_NL]

Rebuilding the engine I decided to correct one of the design flaws... .

The copper pipe for the heater is mounted under 2 head nuts. To remove it (for exchange thermostat for example) means unscrewing these nuts.. Unscrewing only these two does not seems to be a good idea. And I was still not sure about the leakage of the thermostat cover, but did not want to have to undo the head nuts again...

So I made a new copper pipe, fitted at the bracket for the alternator. I'm happy with the result.

Old and new:[frame][/frame]

Fitted:[frame][/frame]

[jagnut66]

Excellent idea, especially as the series 2 pipe, which goes round the other side of the engine and is fixed in place via brackets to the manifold studs, is very hard to find as a spare these days.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[philthehill]

Just take care that engine resonance does not fracture the pipe especially when the copper pipe hardens as there is quite a lot of unsupported pipe in your conversion.
Personally I would have used the original pipe with its two supporting brackets mounted on top of the cylinder head nuts and secured with an extra two nuts. The O/S rear cylinder head stud is longer so as to accommodate the steady bar. By using two of those extra length studs the additional nuts can be accommodated and then there is no requirement to undo the actual cylinder head securing nuts if it is needed to remove the heater pipe.
Alternatively you could always put an additional support between your new pipe and one of the thermostat studs.

[Theo_NL]

Alternatively you could always put an additional support between your new pipe and one of the thermostat studs.

Not a bad idea .

[bmcecosse]

The Mini solution was to just use a rubber pipe.....simples !

[Theo_NL]

Alternatively you could always put an additional support between your new pipe and one of the thermostat studs.

Added
(Temp solution, i didn't want to drain the coolant again to solder a bracket properly)[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Shock/horror ...... no engine number!

[philthehill]

That bracket is a good one. Well done.
Skimmed replacement block so the engine number tag would have had to been removed anyway and if the skimming was done large scale the engine number tag would in all probability not have been put back onto the same block and more likely put in the scrap bin.
So long as the block is the same as the original does it matter that the original engine number is not attached to the block? After all it is a Minor and not say a Bugatti or Amilcar where matching numbers are all important and if not correct or matching can effect the value of the vehicle.
No doubt Theo has kept a note of the original engine number for reference.

[bmcecosse]

I'm sure he has - I'm rattling his cage........

[Theo_NL]

No doubt Theo has kept a note of the original engine number for reference.

The engine block was a reconditioned one I bought last December. No information of engine number was given to me. On the other hand... What is the value of the engine number if head has been replaced, new crankshaft fitted, old sump reused...

I could make a plate with 'RECON 12-2014' (or something like that)

[philthehill]

Theo
Here In the UK the engine number should be displayed or stamped on the block and an engine number is a requirement of vehicle registration and the correct/current engine number must be entered in the vehicle registration document.
It is quite ok to change the engine block so long as the new engine number which is displayed on the block is entered upon the registration document by the relevant authority which in the UK is the DVLA.
Many reconditioned engines over the years have lost their engine number plates but that is not a great problem so long as you retain a record of the engine number which may or may not be the original one.
If you have the original BROWN Log Book - the original engine number will be entered in it. Subsequent registration documents will have the then or current engine number entered in them.
Only the engine number (plate or stamped on block) is the relative number for vehicle registration all other parts of an 'A' series engine do not have serial numbers only part numbers. The gearbox and rear axle whilst having serial numbers they are not a requirement for vehicle registration but they are nice to know.
You not having an engine number plate or stamped block is of no real consequence.
If you do not know the original engine number use your own engine number and for the UK it is better if it is officially entered in the registration document.
I do not know what the vehicle registration requirements are where you live but I would suspect that they are similar.
Just enjoy your new engine and do not worry too much about not having an engine number or other changes you have carried out.
The engine number does help with identifying production changes to the engine though but as the Minor engine is such a simple device and there were few major changes other than increasing engine capacity not having an engine number should pose little if any problem(s).
Happy motoring
Phil

[bmcecosse]

The engine number ID strips are available online, but of course you need 'reverse types' to mark them properly from behind. In fact Phil = it's perfectly ok to tell DVLA the engine has no number - they don't care! Either use the number from your documents - or make one up. When I made myself a 'new' Mini back in 1973 the engine number was my initials and the date..... I made strip from Brass - but actually never got round to fixing it to the engine.... Perhaps just as well, since I had 3 engine/gearbox units for the car.....

[philthehill]

bmc
Whilst DVLA may not care - I would always proffer the information regarding engine details/changes even if it was a change to personal engine number.
If they choose to ignore those change details that is their choice.
Phil

[bmcecosse]

Indeed - but equally they are happy enough with 'no number'. There was a period where if changing engines to a different capacity - DVLA were confiscating the V5 until an 'engineer's report' was produced to verify the change. They thought people were trying to dodge paying higher Road Tax.... The answer was to simply ignore the engine details........ and remove any ID from the engine. It's not required...