Heater (late square type) Overhaul
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- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
Hello Bill,
The front plate isn't completely flat. It has a shallow return on the edges which means the plate is stiff. There is a screw in the centre of the plate at the top which is hidden with the heater installed with no access to remove it. I don't think you would be able to fit the ears without dropping the heater down. In the photo you can see the heater dropped down with the front plate still on. When the car was repainted they didn't mask off the part that is hidden behind the dashboard so it got Smoke Grey paint on it.
Dropping the heater is a horrible job. I would suggest the following (take a deep breath, have a good head torch):
1) Disconnect the battery (live wires behind speedo)
2) Remove screw either end of parcel shelf crash bar and lower shelf down
3) Loosen speedo retaining screws on either side, accessed through inboard hole in each glovebox
4) Remove 2x machine screws, nuts, washers, split washers that hold the top of the heater box onto the dashboard. These are accessed with the speedo pulled out. The screws have Phillips heads and are 2BA. A 2BA ring spanner is needed.
5) Loosen and remove 2x nuts, washers each side holding the heater bracket to the bulkhead. Remove brackets
6) Free the top of the heater box from the dashboard and then it should start to drop down.
Photo shows 1 of 2 heater retaining screws with 2BA nuts
Front plate showing concealed top centre screw
The front plate isn't completely flat. It has a shallow return on the edges which means the plate is stiff. There is a screw in the centre of the plate at the top which is hidden with the heater installed with no access to remove it. I don't think you would be able to fit the ears without dropping the heater down. In the photo you can see the heater dropped down with the front plate still on. When the car was repainted they didn't mask off the part that is hidden behind the dashboard so it got Smoke Grey paint on it.
Dropping the heater is a horrible job. I would suggest the following (take a deep breath, have a good head torch):
1) Disconnect the battery (live wires behind speedo)
2) Remove screw either end of parcel shelf crash bar and lower shelf down
3) Loosen speedo retaining screws on either side, accessed through inboard hole in each glovebox
4) Remove 2x machine screws, nuts, washers, split washers that hold the top of the heater box onto the dashboard. These are accessed with the speedo pulled out. The screws have Phillips heads and are 2BA. A 2BA ring spanner is needed.
5) Loosen and remove 2x nuts, washers each side holding the heater bracket to the bulkhead. Remove brackets
6) Free the top of the heater box from the dashboard and then it should start to drop down.
Photo shows 1 of 2 heater retaining screws with 2BA nuts
Front plate showing concealed top centre screw
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- Bill_qaz
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
Thank Stephen, I'll try to flex the plate enough with top screw still in place to get the ears under the edge, if not they will not be getting fitted
too much work
Can I ask what are the domed black piece in each ear, are they blanking grommets?
Can I ask what are the domed black piece in each ear, are they blanking grommets?
Regards Bill
- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
Yes there are domed rubber grommets. I have no idea what the purpose of them is. The originals had shrivelled and decayed.
Stephen
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
More heater news. I have been given another heater box free of charge, that came from a scrapped late Traveller. As I already have a functioning heater in the car this one is for experimenting to try to improve the performance whilst keeping it looking exactly the same. This heater needs a full strip down to bare metal and rebuild anyway. It should be possible to fit a more powerful motor (but with the same footprint) and a slightly larger centrifugal fan. The standard Smiths "squirrel cage" centrifugal fan is 4" diameter but there is some leeway for a larger diameter fan. A motor that spins at a higher rpm would shift a lot more air and a 2-speed option might be nice too. Autumn projects here we go.
Stephen
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- Bill_qaz
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
Out of interest the fresh air intake, elephant trunk, comes in the drivers side what does the panel on the opposite side look like,
on your heaters?
Mine seems to have a duplicate input taped over.
on your heaters?
Mine seems to have a duplicate input taped over.
Regards Bill
- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
Hello Bill,
On the side that the elephant's trunk joins the heater box (the right hand side as you are sitting in the car looking forwards) there is a rigid blue plastic pipe that the heater duct joins to. On the other side, there is a very similar hole but the motor goes into that hole.
Stephen
Air intake side (before refurbishment and with the heater matrix removed, heater matrix pipes exit on this side)
Motor side (after refurbishment)
On the side that the elephant's trunk joins the heater box (the right hand side as you are sitting in the car looking forwards) there is a rigid blue plastic pipe that the heater duct joins to. On the other side, there is a very similar hole but the motor goes into that hole.
Stephen
Air intake side (before refurbishment and with the heater matrix removed, heater matrix pipes exit on this side)
Motor side (after refurbishment)
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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ManyMinors
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
I think the rubber grommets (possibly the same as those which stop the door handles from hitting the bodywork?) are to stop the glovebox lid hitting the heater.
- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
Aha! That sounds sensible. I used bottle jack rubber filler bungs as the perfect sized replacement.ManyMinors wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2026 9:45 pmI think the rubber grommets (possibly the same as those which stop the door handles from hitting the bodywork?) are to stop the glovebox lid hitting the heater.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
Incidentally, I had noticed the motor is offset from the centre of the case. I hadn't realised that this forms a scroll, like the spiral of a sea shell or a turbocharger. I presume the aim of this is to speed up the air flow as it meets the heater matrix. Very clever design.
Stephen
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
ManyMinors was absolutely correct that the grommets stop the glovebox lid from hitting the heater.
Stephen
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
My second heater rebuild is in progress.
I have found a more powerful motor to replace the rather weak original Smiths motor. The replacement motor spins a lot faster and so it moves more air per unit time.
Just a quick note on direction of fan rotation. The Smiths centrifugal fan is designed to rotate clockwise and is marked as such with an arrow. It will still move air rotating the wrong way but much less effectively. The modern motor rotates anticlockwise with the live wire connected to POSITIVE but clockwise with the live wire connected to NEGATIVE. So for a positive earth car like mine it will work correctly with the motor black (earth) wire connected to earth and the green live wire to live negative. For a negative earth car the black wire would need to be connected to live and the green wire to earth.
The replacement motor has the correct mounting bracket and is a direct swap with no modifications required. It is Turkish made and appears to be excellent quality. The original fan fits the spindle of this motor or you can buy a new fan (which is more robust than the original).
https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/product/37 ... hb8402-001
https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/product/37 ... shf3824-01
Stephen
I have found a more powerful motor to replace the rather weak original Smiths motor. The replacement motor spins a lot faster and so it moves more air per unit time.
Just a quick note on direction of fan rotation. The Smiths centrifugal fan is designed to rotate clockwise and is marked as such with an arrow. It will still move air rotating the wrong way but much less effectively. The modern motor rotates anticlockwise with the live wire connected to POSITIVE but clockwise with the live wire connected to NEGATIVE. So for a positive earth car like mine it will work correctly with the motor black (earth) wire connected to earth and the green live wire to live negative. For a negative earth car the black wire would need to be connected to live and the green wire to earth.
The replacement motor has the correct mounting bracket and is a direct swap with no modifications required. It is Turkish made and appears to be excellent quality. The original fan fits the spindle of this motor or you can buy a new fan (which is more robust than the original).
https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/product/37 ... hb8402-001
https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/product/37 ... shf3824-01
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- Bill_qaz
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
Thanks Stephen I'll have a proper look next time I'm over at the car.svenedin wrote: ↑Wed Oct 21, 2026 8:49 pm Hello Bill,
On the side that the elephant's trunk joins the heater box (the right hand side as you are sitting in the car looking forwards) there is a rigid blue plastic pipe that the heater duct joins to. On the other side, there is a very similar hole but the motor goes into that hole.
Stephen
Air intake side (before refurbishment and with the heater matrix removed, heater matrix pipes exit on this side)
IMG_8507.jpeg
Motor side (after refurbishment)
IMG_8586.jpeg
Regards Bill
- svenedin
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Re: Heater (late square type) Overhaul
One thing I have noticed this time, which I didn't notice last time is that there is an obvious gap where the metal pipe that directs air to the screen vents joins the side piece of the heater box. This will leak air. The gap could be sealed by various means, silicone sealant, Dum Dum type caulk rope or permanently with some epoxy. I think I will use epoxy putty. Milliput epoxy putty comes in black which is ideal. A permanent seal that will not deteriorate and fall off.
Stephen
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen