Engine

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les
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Engine

Post by les »

Well the flywheel saga is over so a new heading. More dismantling including cylinder head. I was interested to find a couple of threaded plugs already in the oil ways, one I’m having difficulty removing, unfortunately not in all of them have been done.
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svenedin
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Re: Engine

Post by svenedin »

That corrosion around the water pump aperture looks quite bad. Will it affect the gasket sealing?

Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
les
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Re: Engine

Post by les »

Yes it needs looking at, there is an area where the gasket can seal but it could be better ! I think it will be ok.

philthehill
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Re: Engine

Post by philthehill »

The corrosion around the bottom and sides of the water pump aperture is quite normal and does not effect anything. There is a hole through the casting/corrosion which can be cleaned up by passing a suitable sized drill through it.
There can be at least 7 oil gallery plugs fitted if required. One at either end of the horizontal oil galleries (4) and for the oil pressure relief valve bypass gallery (2). At the outer end of the head horizontal gallery (1) which feeds the rocker gear.
I would suggest that those oil gallery plugs which are proud of the block face should be machined down flush with the face unless the rear casing is recessed. The rear horizontal oil gallery plugs fitted to the inline 'A' Series engines have to be machined flush with the rear face of the block to enable the rear engine plate to fit.
Has the box to block attachment been upgraded to larger studs/bolts?

les
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Re: Engine

Post by les »

The plug in the first picture has been taken out and not screwed back in fully. The other is being stubborn ! I’m becoming more confident that the previous rebuild, apparently by a reputable person, has been done ok, not only because of the two threaded plugs but also the block has been countersunk for the studs, and the head looks in good order. I’d like to see if other plugs, if any, are fitted but wonder if it’s now necessary to remove the gearbox to see, as I originally planed. I'll be speaking to my friend on Saturday.
Removing the camshaft is next. The primary gear is straight cut as I think is the gearbox.
The bolts have been replaced with cap head Phil. I haven’t yet looked closely in that area to check if they are next size up.

les
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Re: Engine

Post by les »

Further work, the camshaft is by Kent cams, Megadyne 296. The gearbox to block cap headed screws look to be 5/16. Everything cleaned up now and ordered spares and gaskets etc, have arrived. I’m leaving the cam timing until last, as I’m a bit out of my depth with this variable cam sprocket, lining it up with the crank sprocket.
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philthehill
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Re: Engine

Post by philthehill »

Les
A nice set of forged rockers I see.
Timing the cam is relatively easy though to do it accurately you do need at least two dial gauges - one to determine TDC and another to determine max cam lift at the specified degrees. A timing disc is a prerequisite as is the camshaft specification.
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Sorry about the Australian version but that is how it ends up.
Phil

les
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Re: Engine

Post by les »

Thanks Phil, I’d like to attempt it but don’t be surprised if I ask for your help if I do, it’s the starting point with the variable sprocket that worries me. I’ll see about the cam spec.

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