Flywheel ?

[les]

I’ve hit the bolt with no success, I’m ordering a socket with a 3/4 square drive; the long bar I have requires this, I’m worried about breaking the 1/2 drive socket. Regarding heating the centre, I imagine it would need a lot of heat.

[philthehill]

If it comes to using heat I do not think it will need a lot of heat is needed just a little to break the grip of the taper.
It may be that the inside taper of the aftermarket modified flywheel is so precise as to increase the grip.
As to the lightness of the flywheel - I have a very light steel flywheel and it does not appear to impact on the running of the engine, in fact it is quite smooth at low revs.

[les]

If I use heat do you think I should do it with the tension still on the puller ?
Maybe I’ll reconsider the lightness of the flywheel in view of your comments. I may have mentioned, I’m doing this for a good friend who was unable to get much information about the cars past, he was told it was not too pleasant a drive, I’m thinking the camshaft might not help in that respect. If I can get that blessed flywheel off, I will explore further !!

[philthehill]

Les
Keep the puller on under max tension and apply gentle heat to the flywheel boss.
Just make sure that you are well out of the way when the flywheel comes off the crankshaft.
My Minor was unattractable until I changed the camshaft. I went from a 310 scatter profile to a 649 and the engine is now tractable so the camshaft currently fitted to your friends classic mini may have too much lift and too much overlap. I would be interested to know what number/spec it is.
Phil

[Keith]

Les, Take a look at the YouTube link below at 26 minutes, that long bar was under some pressure.
Keith

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDswKfTRuWQ

[les]

I’ll keep you posted Phil, I thought the 649 was a full race cam, thinking back. I fitted a 731 semi to my old S. I might need help in identifying the cam when I can get at it.
Keith, just watched the video. Oh dear better join a gym !

[philthehill]

Re the video - The flywheel removal would have been better and easier if he had a proper flywheel locking tool instead of the screwdriver.

[59Elva]

Is there a reason not to use an impact wrench, stripping the puller, warping the flywheel? The shock and vibration might help. Penetrating oil? I’ve found Kroil to be the best if you can find it.

[Bill_qaz]

Is there a reason not to use an impact wrench, stripping the puller, warping the flywheel? The shock and vibration might help. Penetrating oil? I’ve found Kroil to be the best if you can find it.

The OP doesn't have access to one, asked earlier in the post
A electric warm air gun will supply enough heat while keeping as much tension as possible on the puller.

[les]

Latest, I’ve ordered an 24mm x 3/4” impact socket, apparently 12 point, despite not having the gun, I understand they are less brittle. Should be here tomorrow. I’ll be using it with a long bar. If it’s too tough I’ll buy a blowtorch. In the meantime I’ve been cleaning and painting the bits I have been able to remove. Hope to report success soon !

[les]

Well the heavy 3/4 drive socket arrived today and with the help of a 3 ft bar, and a final couple of sharp hits on the puller centre with a club hammer, success.
The flywheel fell on the floor. I couldn’t have done it without my friend to hold the engine from turning.
It really took some leverage. I was worried something would break. Thank you all for your help.

[Bill_qaz]

Great success, sometimes no substitute for brute force

[serowman]

Make sure you have the crank in correct position or primary gear locking slide will prevent removal

[serowman]

Phil I tell you a tale about loose flywheels on MINI

[59Elva]

If at first you don’t succeed, get a bigger hammer.

[les]

Further into my rebuild, I’ve found something I’ve not seen before. The starter ring welded in 3 places. There is also an adjustable camshaft sprocket. I worry when I see lock washers like this.

IMG_4240.jpeg (1008.82 KiB) Viewed 3737 times

IMG_4237.jpeg (1.82 MiB) Viewed 3737 times

[philthehill]

Les
Thanks for posting the photos of the engine stripped.
As regards the welded on ring gear. Not unusual and used as a means of positively securing the flywheel ring gear to the flywheel.
How the camshaft locking washer is set and the chisel mark on the nut is in my opinion very poor workmanship.
Am I right in thinking that there is a hexagon plug in the front end of the camshaft. The camshaft may have been drilled for additional oil flow to the cam lobes before hardening. Drilling the lobes is quite common these days for additional oil flow.
I will be interested in learning about what else you find that is not standard.
Phil

[les]

Thanks Phil, I didn’t realise the ring gear is sometimes welded. Yes its a poor show regarding the lock washer, you tend to think what else. Yes there is a 5 mm plug in the end of the cam, I was going to ask about that. I’ll be taking things apart shortly, to see what else comes to light.

[philthehill]

Les
Below is a Piper cam with the additional oil ways drilled through the centre of the camshaft and into the lead in slopes of the cam lobes.
https://www.pipercams.co.uk/product/met ... Q5JGwwJGgw

[les]

Another development new to me, should I remove the plug and flush ? I intend to do this with the block and replace with threaded plugs, incidentally, it might become self explanatory but I would like guidance at some point, as to the ones to remove.