Alignment dots duplex timing chain

[PhilAllen]

In case it helps, my car was built 12-14th November 1969 and it has a 10V engine number, confirmed on the BMIHT certificate, so they must have started fitting them in 1969. The number at the end is 18684, I assume they started somewhere low so they fitted quite a few by mid November 1969!

[svenedin]

In case it helps, my car was built 12-14th November 1969 and it has a 10V engine number, confirmed on the BMIHT certificate, so they must have started fitting them in 1969. The number at the end is 18684, I assume they started somewhere low so they fitted quite a few by mid November 1969!

That's interesting. My car was built 27-28th March 1969 and has a 10ME engine number with the final number only having 4 digits. The heritage certificate incorrectly states my engine number starts 10MA but has the actual engine digits correct.

So 10V started at some point after March 1969 and before 1970.

Stephen

[WoodyMM]

I guess my engine is not the original fitted as the car is from 30 June 1970 or at least that is what the documents say when it was imported in Holland in 1978. I came across another mystery, as you can see the chassis nbr has a L for lefthand drive but it is a RHD car.

I will try to contact the British Motor Museum maybe they have more info.

Marco

20260328_093104.jpg (352.82 KiB) Viewed 6912 times

[svenedin]

My March 1969 car has a car number 124XXXX so your car at 128XXXX sounds about right for 1970. You also have a final letter F signifying made at Adderley Park which is also correct for a very late Traveller.

See: https://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/Identify.htm

Stephen

[philthehill]

Could have been converted back to R/H drive when re-imported back to the U.K whilst retaining its original chassis number.

[WoodyMM]

Its strange because as far as I know the car was only exported once form the UK to NL in 1978 and it still is in NL.....

Marco

[WoodyMM]

Here I am again...
I took everything apart again and found the valve timing one tooth off. Happy me I thought that I found the problem so put everything back together, checked the valve clearance, set the timing and started the engine. The engine was running perfect for about a minute and then started stuttering again and when I accelerated the engine stopped. It starts again immediately but the problem persists.
I thought maybe the fuel supply is not ok so checked the fuel filter and pump but its all clean and pumping ok. I cleaned the float chamber and checked the jet assembly which looked ok and clean. The dashpot is full with oil and the air filter is new.
So now I'm stuck, do you have any suggestion where I should look?
Marco.

[svenedin]

Here I am again...
I took everything apart again and found the valve timing one tooth off. Happy me I thought that I found the problem so put everything back together, checked the valve clearance, set the timing and started the engine. The engine was running perfect for about a minute and then started stuttering again and when I accelerated the engine stopped. It starts again immediately but the problem persists.
I thought maybe the fuel supply is not ok so checked the fuel filter and pump but its all clean and pumping ok. I cleaned the float chamber and checked the jet assembly which looked ok and clean. The dashpot is full with oil and the air filter is new.
So now I'm stuck, do you have any suggestion where I should look?
Marco.

If it's not fuel it has to be spark......

It's a guess but runs OK then stutters when you accelerate but will start again sounds like a faulty condenser.

If you have some spark testers (the type that clip onto the top of the park plugs) use those to check the spark at each plug. You can buy a set of 4 and check them all at once. Go through the ignition system checking one thing at a time. Examine the spark plug electrodes, check the plug gaps, check the high tension leads, king lead, distributor cap, rotor arm, points gap. Check connection to coil are tight.

Good luck!

Stephen

[WoodyMM]

Thank you Stephen, your were right and it was something electrical.

The only thing I did today was removing the distributor cap and tightening the connection of the condenser and the engine is running beautiful again!

I still wanted to set the correct mixture by using the lift pin on the carburetor but when I push the pin slightly the engine stagers so maybe the mixture is too lean and I need to enrich it. When I screw the nut down it makes no difference and at some point the engine starts staggering without pushing the pin. Any thoughts on this?

Marco

[svenedin]

Thank you Stephen, your were right and it was something electrical.

The only thing I did today was removing the distributor cap and tightening the connection of the condenser and the engine is running beautiful again!

I still wanted to set the correct mixture by using the lift pin on the carburetor but when I push the pin slightly the engine stagers so maybe the mixture is too lean and I need to enrich it. When I screw the nut down it makes no difference and at some point the engine starts staggering without pushing the pin. Any thoughts on this?

Marco

Good news!

Personally, I find the lifting pin method quite difficult. Lifting the pin 1/32” is 0.8mm. It’s a very small movement. It takes practice to do. I take the air filter off and then I can see the very small movement of the piston. There is slack when you press the lifting pin. Once you take up the slack the actual extra lift needed is minuscule. Before making any changes ensure the engine is fully up to temperature. Remember you are moving the lower jet nut, not the upper one which is for centring the jet. If you cannot use the lifting pin method, try a Gunson Colortune. These are quite expensive now but very good and simple to use.

Stephen

[WoodyMM]

I will try it again soon but first I'm going to drive and enjoy the car
Happy Easter!
Marco