When the windscreen wiper motor starts it initially splutters, moving about 5degs and stopping a few times, before it kicks into its normal action, this is with the wiper linkage disconnected from the motor. If the linkage is connected then it splutters once it twice and then stops (the blades don't move).
Any Ideas what is likely to cause this type of issue?
Winscreen Wiper initiallaly splutters
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- svenedin
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Re: Winscreen Wiper initiallaly splutters
Is this the original wiper motor Lucas DR3a? As fitted to most Minors (but not early ones).
It is likely to be due to the grease in the motor housing, the bit that houses the crank and wheel, having gone sticky and hard. Likewise, the grease has also hardened inside the wiper Bundy tubes where the wiper rack goes. Probably worsened by stiff wiper wheelboxes. It is possible that the motor brushes are nearly worn out as well.
I'd suggest a full overhaul of the wiper system. You can start at the motor end but if the rest of the system is gummed up it puts a lot of strain on the motor. The machine screws that hold the cover on the wiper motor wheel box part are 4BA. If you remove the motor end cover you can inspect the carbon brushes. Disconnect the battery before fiddling with the wiper motor as it has a permanent live for the self-parking. Do NOT mix up the 3 electrical connections (label them).
Stephen
It is likely to be due to the grease in the motor housing, the bit that houses the crank and wheel, having gone sticky and hard. Likewise, the grease has also hardened inside the wiper Bundy tubes where the wiper rack goes. Probably worsened by stiff wiper wheelboxes. It is possible that the motor brushes are nearly worn out as well.
I'd suggest a full overhaul of the wiper system. You can start at the motor end but if the rest of the system is gummed up it puts a lot of strain on the motor. The machine screws that hold the cover on the wiper motor wheel box part are 4BA. If you remove the motor end cover you can inspect the carbon brushes. Disconnect the battery before fiddling with the wiper motor as it has a permanent live for the self-parking. Do NOT mix up the 3 electrical connections (label them).
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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Re: Winscreen Wiper initiallaly splutters
Thanks for your assistance.
It is a DR3A motor.
I've cleaned out and regreased the the crank and wheel area and that has resolved the spluttering and all appears good there now
The wipers won't move, so as you said, it is probably more grease issues elsewhere. I'm off to refer to the manual to see how to take it apart & clean (any tips always appreciated)
Rob
It is a DR3A motor.
I've cleaned out and regreased the the crank and wheel area and that has resolved the spluttering and all appears good there now

The wipers won't move, so as you said, it is probably more grease issues elsewhere. I'm off to refer to the manual to see how to take it apart & clean (any tips always appreciated)
Rob
- svenedin
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Re: Winscreen Wiper initiallaly splutters
Good. Well done. It seems the motor end is OK now.
It is a bit of a mission to do the rest of the system. You can try a basic clean up which is much less involved than taking everything apart.
Take the cover off the wiper motor wheel/crank area. Note the orientation of the copper self park contact (it is possible to fit in two positions 180 degrees apart). Take a photo is the best way. Remove the C-clip carefully and then take off the self-park contact. Remove the crank. Now you can disconnect the rack. Put rags down. Remove the wiper arms. Pull out the wiper rack. It is like a long greasy snake. Very messy. Clean the rack in a grease dissolving solvent of your choice e.g petrol, carburettor cleaner etc. Check that the wiper wheel box spindles turn freely now the rack is out. If they don't you can try to dribble some oil in but you may have to remove them from the car (see below). Re-fit the rack having greased it liberally. High melting point lithium grease is good (it can get hot in the car and ordinary grease will melt and drip). I fit the rack by feeding it through one gloved hand covered in grease. Put everything back together and test.....
If the above does not work.......
Remove both gloveboxes. Remove all of the Bundy tubing and then both wiper wheelboxes (the bezels are usually seized, lots of penetrating oil). Clean out the Bundy tubes with solvent and by pushing a plug of tissue through with stout wire (coat hanger). Replace any totally seized wheel box. DO NOT buy new ones. They have the wrong arc of travel of the wipers. If you must replace a wheelbox get a good second hand one. Replace the wheelbox rubber gaskets to scuttle (under the bezels). Reassemble everything having oiled the spindle of the wheelboxes.
Good luck! It's a horrible job but once done the wipers will be fine for decades.
Stephen
It is a bit of a mission to do the rest of the system. You can try a basic clean up which is much less involved than taking everything apart.
Take the cover off the wiper motor wheel/crank area. Note the orientation of the copper self park contact (it is possible to fit in two positions 180 degrees apart). Take a photo is the best way. Remove the C-clip carefully and then take off the self-park contact. Remove the crank. Now you can disconnect the rack. Put rags down. Remove the wiper arms. Pull out the wiper rack. It is like a long greasy snake. Very messy. Clean the rack in a grease dissolving solvent of your choice e.g petrol, carburettor cleaner etc. Check that the wiper wheel box spindles turn freely now the rack is out. If they don't you can try to dribble some oil in but you may have to remove them from the car (see below). Re-fit the rack having greased it liberally. High melting point lithium grease is good (it can get hot in the car and ordinary grease will melt and drip). I fit the rack by feeding it through one gloved hand covered in grease. Put everything back together and test.....
If the above does not work.......
Remove both gloveboxes. Remove all of the Bundy tubing and then both wiper wheelboxes (the bezels are usually seized, lots of penetrating oil). Clean out the Bundy tubes with solvent and by pushing a plug of tissue through with stout wire (coat hanger). Replace any totally seized wheel box. DO NOT buy new ones. They have the wrong arc of travel of the wipers. If you must replace a wheelbox get a good second hand one. Replace the wheelbox rubber gaskets to scuttle (under the bezels). Reassemble everything having oiled the spindle of the wheelboxes.
Good luck! It's a horrible job but once done the wipers will be fine for decades.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen