Steering Wheel

[geoberni]

The front hub and wheel nut figures are the same.

I am not aware of any reason that BMC would want to reduce the torque setting of the steering wheel nut.
The only reason I can think of is that the higher torque pressed the female taper of the steering wheel harder onto the male taper of the steering column making it difficult to separate the two.

That makes sense, garages complaining that it was hard work, even with the puller.

[Bill_qaz]

Or money saving lower quality nuts stripping on production line maybe

[svenedin]

To put this to bed, I have just confirmed that the steering wheel nut on a Series V needs a 3/4" Whitworth spanner. This is 33.02 mm so 1*5/16" AF (33.33mm) also fits

Berni has already confirmed that the Series II steering wheel spanner is 7/8" Whitworth

The box spanner I posted a picture of earlier in the thread will do both sizes. Phil mentioned that really the nut should be correctly torqued which is not possible with a box spanner but it is lot better than a hammer and chisel which was often used!!!!

Stephen

[Bill_qaz]

Stephen you can torque using a box spanner. You put an appropriate size socket on the outside of the end you are not using and use it with your torque wrench to get the appropriate setting
But if you have sockets that big you probably have one for the nut

[svenedin]

Stephen you can torque using a box spanner. You put an appropriate size socket on the outside of the end you are not using and use it with your torque wrench to get the appropriate setting
But if you have sockets that big you probably have one for the nut

Well exactly. The end I'm not using is 7/8" Whitworth and I don't have an enormous socket for that!!! Incidentally, if you do use a socket for the steering wheel nut it makes the process more time consuming than using a box spanner. You have to remove the e-clip, spring and plastic tube for the horn contact and it is fiddly and easy to loose the clip. I do have a socket but find it far quicker to use a box spanner. Also you may find there is no room inside the steering wheel boss for a socket, it depends on the wall thickness of the socket.

Stephen

[Bill_qaz]

Don't remember removing anything other than the horn push(one screw ) to access the nut, removed it and steering wheel and realigned it as it annoyed me being a spline out of central. The socket fitted without any modification, I didn’t use a torque wrench but after 50+ years in the industry I have a well tuned elbow

[svenedin]

Don't remember removing anything other than the horn push(one screw ) to access the nut, removed it and steering wheel and realigned it as it annoyed me being a spline out of central. The socket fitted without any modification, I didn’t use a torque wrench but after 50+ years in the industry I have a well tuned elbow

The Series V the horn push has to be carefully levered out, it's secured by clips not a screw. Then there's the central horn push contact which is held in the top of a plastic tube by an e-clip on the bullet connector. There's a spring inside the tube. A socket will foul this or at least mine does.

Stephen

IMG_8545.jpeg (1.43 MiB) Viewed 131 times

[Bill_qaz]

Don't remember removing anything other than the horn push(one screw ) to access the nut, removed it and steering wheel and realigned it as it annoyed me being a spline out of central. The socket fitted without any modification, I didn’t use a torque wrench but after 50+ years in the industry I have a well tuned elbow

The Series V the horn push has to be carefully levered out, it's secured by clips not a screw. Then there's the central horn push contact which is held in the top of a plastic tube by an e-clip on the bullet connector. There's a spring inside the tube. A socket will foul this or at least mine does.

Stephen

IMG_8545.jpeg

Stephen, mines 62 cross over mk5 with banjo wheel so not like your picture.I maybe having brain fade but I remembered a screw holding horn push and keeps M in correct orientation to spoke.

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