Battery selection

[oliver90owner]

Something to compare between usage back then and now? Only in the 1970s was parking permitted (without side lights) in a 30mph zone.

I doubt modern batteries, on cars with incandescent side lights, would last very long - if drained for several hours at about 1 1/2 to 2 Amps on a regular basis.

[geoberni]

Something to compare between usage back then and now? Only in the 1970s was parking permitted (without side lights) in a 30mph zone.

I doubt modern batteries, on cars with incandescent side lights, would last very long - if drained for several hours at about 1 1/2 to 2 Amps on a regular basis.

Added to that is that a great many places didn't have 30 limits until the 70s or later.
I'm involved with Road Safety in my village as we have several issues with the County Highways and their attitude to limits (amongst other things.... ).
We used to have a major Trunk Route A Road through the centre of the village until 1989 when the built the bypass.
I obtained copies of all the Traffic Regulation Orders that our County Highways held relating to Speed Limits in the village; the records were by no means complete, but it was 1973 before they actually introduced a 30 limit on the Trunk Route through the centre.
This map is from the TRO of 1973...
The entire rest of the village was still 'National Limit'; 30 zones only being added piecemeal into the 1980s, probably tied in with various housing developments...

The 'Built Up Area' for the 30 limit (introduced 1935) was defined by the presence of Street Lighting spaced no more than 200 yards apart, but most of the village had no street lighting, even in the 70s... ..

30 Trunk Road.JPG (135.27 KiB) Viewed 11377 times

But let's not go off down rabbit holes.

[philthehill]

My reply as to what size battery is required - buy the largest battery (size and amperage) you can at the price you want to pay.
You cannot have overcapacity as regards batteries. All predicated by quality.

[Bill_qaz]

My reply to which battery is whichever one you want to buy for your car
Two days of using new battery lots of stops and first pull starts,
If it lasts as many years as the 038 that preceded it then it's well up to the task

[MattGeeNY]

So the subject of 'Which Battery' sometimes comes up and various ones are suggested.
I've done a bit of research and ...
I haven't included Retro/Classic batteries with the exposed cell connections on the top; they're a whole different range of numbers.

Good research, but sadly although I came to the club as a source you've excluded exactly what I needed
Cheers!
Matt G

[svenedin]

So the subject of 'Which Battery' sometimes comes up and various ones are suggested.
I've done a bit of research and ...
I haven't included Retro/Classic batteries with the exposed cell connections on the top; they're a whole different range of numbers.

Good research, but sadly although I came to the club as a source you've excluded exactly what I needed
Cheers!
Matt G

If your car is original positive earth then Shield 165 is the correct one. I did get as far as working out it was the right battery and that it would fit. In the end I decided that although it looked the part, I am probably too careless to be trusted with a battery with exposed connections and would end up shorting it with a tool at some point. It is also rather expensive and requires checking and topping up unlike a modern sealed battery. I bough a Lucas LP014 instead and bought a period Lucas battery sticker from "I Say Ding Dong" to put on the front. One thing to mention is that if going from a small battery like an 038 to a bigger battery, you may find you need longer J-bolts to hold the retaining bar (I did). There are two holes for the J-bolt on either side of the battery box so there is some leeway but it may not be enough.

Stephen

[MattGeeNY]

Cheers for that!
I used to have a Model T Ford and a Morris Oxford with Lincoln battery so I've had some wariness built in from previous years, heh. My Morris is a standard '49 MM which is why I'm considering going the period route.
I am considering the fitment of a period correct Lucas battery isolator, for a precaution, just mulling over what type to fit. I'll seek out an old stock Lucas original though, not one of these modern 'lucas' brand jobbies.
I appreciate your info and I'll give Lincoln a ring today
Kind regards
Matt G

[geoberni]

So the subject of 'Which Battery' sometimes comes up and various ones are suggested.
I've done a bit of research and ...
I haven't included Retro/Classic batteries with the exposed cell connections on the top; they're a whole different range of numbers.

Good research, but sadly although I came to the club as a source you've excluded exactly what I needed
Cheers!
Matt G

I excluded them because they are an entirely different market and not desired by the great majority due to their significant extra cost and inherent dangers.
It was not worth my effort to research such a niche market; if anyone really desires such a battery, they can obviously find the time to do their own research, relevant to them and the depth of their pockets.

I made a dummy top to cover my modern battery and used a Lucas Sticker in the same manner as Stephen did.
Taking my battery from this...
.

20230501_093502.jpg (1.43 MiB) Viewed 6593 times

.
To this...
.

20230501_094638.jpg (1.4 MiB) Viewed 6593 times

.
Without the risk of shorting out the real thing, and causing myself personal injury.

[MattGeeNY]

Cheers! Photo inspiration appreciated as well as your research applicable to the majority of Minors. My comment was only tongue in cheek because a Google search brought up this thread and lulled me in!

The potential of accidental clumsiness with tools is often cited regards these open bar batteries, of course something that one needs to be aware of indeed. I have had a Model T Ford, Thames Van and Morris Oxford with them (since the mid 1990's) and only ever had 1 near-miss. I suppose that lesson made me even more careful, which was, amusingly, when fitting a battery isolator to my Oxford !

I wonder what the regular maintenance taking place above the battery top height on a Minor is, that I'm missing out, where I might drop a spanner on to it's top? Tightening the bonnet stay bar and fixing bolts? Of course a tool 🛠 slipping from the hand can flip about anywhere, I realise!

Kind regards,
Matt G

[geoberni]

I am considering the fitment of a period correct Lucas battery isolator, for a precaution, just mulling over what type to fit. I'll seek out an old stock Lucas original though, not one of these modern 'lucas' brand jobbies.

Precaution from what?
I fail to see the relevance of any battery isolator when you're speaking of fitting a retro battery with exposed Cell Connectors.
An isolator is worth Diddley Squat if you accidentally short the terminals with a spanner or similar conductive tool.
The isolator is only isolating the cars wiring from the battery...

[geoberni]

Cheers! Photo inspiration appreciated as well as your research applicable to the majority of Minors. My comment was only tongue in cheek because a Google search brought up this thread and lulled me in!

I wonder what the regular maintenance taking place above the battery top height on a Minor is, that I'm missing out, where I might drop a spanner on to it's top? Tightening the bonnet stay bar and fixing bolts? Of course a tool 🛠 slipping from the hand can flip about anywhere, I realise!

Kind regards,
Matt G

Yes, I did notice the Smiley, and I did consider the Retro battery market for the list, but my initial research was so many rabbit holes I decided it wasn't worth it.

It's not so much working above the battery, it's more a case of working anywhere in the engine bay, concentrating on the task and inadvertently placing a tool down. It's easily done.

[MattGeeNY]

I am considering the fitment of a period correct Lucas battery isolator, for a precaution, just mulling over what type to fit. I'll seek out an old stock Lucas original though, not one of these modern 'lucas' brand jobbies.

Precaution from what?
I fail to see the relevance of any battery isolator when you're speaking of fitting a retro battery with exposed Cell Connectors.

An isolator is worth Diddley Squat if you accidentally short the terminals with a spanner or similar conductive tool.

The isolator is only isolating the cars wiring from the battery...

Thanks for questioning my reasoning for faffing about with the electrics, it's making me think about what I really need!

A battery with exposed cell connectors does not mutually exclude the various reasons on this forum and other pages for having a battery isolator though (which would be my precaution in fitting one); the main one being if there is an issue with loom overload or short and a load of burning wires it would be nice to be able to flick off the power from inside the car, rather than pulling over to a stop, pulling the bonnet catch, opening the door, then the bonnet and finally pulling off the battery terminal! That's happened to me years ago with a precious original low mileage 1960 Austin Seven mini.

I mentioned it generally as something I'm considering as I look at the electrical side. My car was renovated by a thorough ex RAF airframe fitter 1979-82, when a replacement purpose made loom was supplied. That in itself is now nearly 45 years old. That may be a better investment although it looks extremely involved doing a full replacement but good peace of mind I feel. Just more expense!

Regards
Matt G

[oliver90owner]

IMO, extra fuses (of appropriate value according to the wiring rating) is a better and safer route during normal running. An isolator, at the battery terminal, really should only be there to avoid any small loads which would slowly discharge the battery while the vehicle is not in regular use.