Better than nothing rust treatment?

[svenedin]

I have ordered a new steady cable. Just a quick question: is there any reason why I shouldn't replace this whilst the engine is out or should I wait until the engine is back in? I am thinking that I should fit it loosely and adjust it to neutral tension when the engine is reinstalled. This is because the gearbox is currently supported by a jack and as such not really a normal position for the gearbox.

Stephen

[philthehill]

You can fit the new cable but do the final adjustment when the engine is back in place.
Fitting the cable to the gearbox and having it secured with 1/4" UNF bolts was a retro fit bodge by BMC (the steady cable was not originally factory fitted). They should as part of the retro modification instructed that the three bolts holding the steady cable to the gearbox should be changed to 5/16" UNC. UNF thread are too fine for aluminium.

[svenedin]

OK thank you Phil. I don't think I can do that thread modification with the gearbox in situ but if the gearbox comes out in future I will try to remember to do it. In my case the gearbox threads have done their job and it is the cable that has failed but I accept that the BMC bodge is inadequate. I have previously stripped a thread where the valve goes into a front damper so I know that aluminium alloy is not very strong.

Stephen

[svenedin]

Just about to venture out to do the gearbox steady cable and the earth cable that's very nearby. Dawdling in the house because it's raining and only 3.5 C. Not enjoyable for lying under a car!!

I ordered a new battery 005R 60 Amp/hr. The existing battery is rather too small at 38 Amp/hr. All of the charging circuit is fine but such a small battery has little reserve. It would be adequate for a car that only gets driven on sunny days but isn't so good for a car that get's used at night and in Winter. I have got 5 years out of the old battery before it has started to noticeably reduce in reserve power.

I also need to clean away all of the stray sandblasting grit that has found its way into the gearbox bell housing. This was protected with a heavy welding mat but even so, there's grit in there. The clutch fork gaiter is full of grit so I will have to do some disassembly. I had been meaning to overhaul the clutch relay with a kit of new parts and now is the time to do it. The trouble is the grit sticks to any grease or oil so it isn't as easy as just brushing or vacuuming it off. It's like chocolate sprinkles stuck to the butter cream on a cake but not as nice.

I may also replace the metal fuel line to the tank. This has been bent causing various restrictions in the bore and although the pump does pump fuel I would be happier replacing it entirely. The new one on order is Kunifer (cupronickel) made by Automec and comes with the fittings either end already soldered on.

Plenty to be getting on with!

Stephen

[svenedin]

Steady cable done. If doing this job you need to retain the thin lock nut that sits inside the cable bracket. A full size nut would make removing or adjusting the cable very tedious. If you happen to have a 1/2" AF brake spanner this is absolutely ideal to undo the lock nut but an ordinary spanner will do the job.

Should there be a rubber grommet to stop this fraying??

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[svenedin]

Steady cable done. If doing this job you need to retain the thin lock nut that sits inside the cable bracket. A full size nut would make removing or adjusting the cable very tedious. If you happen to have a 1/2" AF brake spanner this is absolutely ideal to undo the lock nut but an ordinary spanner will do the job.

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[rocco]

I love these kinds of threads, with lots of pictures and tips to help others out. Great stuff and thanks!

[philthehill]

There is no factory fitted grommet inserted into the gearbox cross member to stop the engine steady cable fraying.
If the engine/gearbox mounts are in good condition the size of the hole in the cross member will be adequate without any grommet being fitted.
If you are concerned that it may fray put a piece of split rubber pipe over the steady cable so that if it did come into contact with the cross member the rubber tubing will alleviate any contact/wear.

[svenedin]

I love these kinds of threads, with lots of pictures and tips to help others out. Great stuff and thanks!

Thank you Rocco. I just thought I'd share as I learn things!

Stephen

[svenedin]

There is no factory fitted grommet inserted into the gearbox cross member to stop the engine steady cable fraying.
If the engine/gearbox mounts are in good condition the size of the hole in the cross member will be adequate without any grommet being fitted.
If you are concerned that it may fray put a piece of split rubber pipe over the steady cable so that if it did come into contact with the cross member the rubber tubing will alleviate any contact/wear.

Thanks Phil. I'll leave it alone now!

Stephen

[svenedin]

The gearbox bell housing was very dirty with sandblasting grit.

I removed the carbon release bearing, clutch fork, gaiter and clutch operating rod. Cleaned everything very thoroughly. Vacuumed out the bell housing, then cleaned with carburettor cleaner. Grit literally poured out of the gaiter. Fitted a new gaiter, a new release bearing (even though this is not strictly necessary), greased in the appropriate places e.g. the bush in the clutch fork, where the release bearing pivots in the fork. Much better I think. I could not bear to think of parts grinding away with grit.

I do have a blanking plug for the other hole in the side of the bell housing but I could not fit it. So cold today that the rubber was too hard.

I could not detect slop in the clutch linkage so I left as is. I do need to change the pedal "draught excluder"

Stephen

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[philthehill]

Important - before you fit the engine to the gearbox I would suggest that you remove the gearbox front cover and examine for sand blasting grit.
If sand blasting grit has got inside the front cover then the front cover and front bearing are not going to last very long. All that stops the oil coming out via the first motion shaft is a return scroll inside the front cover and sand blasting grit will soon wear that away. There is no seal unless you have fitted a modified front cover with lip seal.
Personally I would not have used sand blasting grit to clean the inside of the gearbox bell housing. The use of a paraffin gun and a hard brush would have been better.

[svenedin]

Important - before you fit the engine to the gearbox I would suggest that you remove the gearbox front cover and examine for sand blasting grit.
If sand blasting grit has got inside the front cover then the front cover and front bearing are not going to last very long. All that stops the oil coming out via the first motion shaft is a return scroll inside the front cover and sand blasting grit will soon wear that away. There is no seal unless you have fitted a modified front cover with lip seal.
Personally I would not have used sand blasting grit to clean the inside of the gearbox bell housing. The use of a paraffin gun and a hard brush would have been better.

Thanks for the tip Phil. I will have to look up how to take the gearbox front cover off.

I most certainly did not sand blast the bell housing. It happened that the gearbox was in the car when the engine bay was sandblasted. I did ask how they were going to protect the gearbox and I was told they would ensure it was protected by wrapping plastic around it. I complained afterwards that it seemed it hadn't been protected but they claimed they had used a heavy welding mat. Whatever is the case, grit got into the bell housing.

Stephen

[svenedin]

Ok I've looked it up and it looks easy to take off the front cover. As this was a reconditioned gearbox from ESM I think it already has the front oil seal modification.

As they are only £2 I will replace the oil seal as routine and the gasket of course.

The gearbox does leak a few drips from the drain plug and always has. Since I will have to drain the oil to take off the front cover, is there anything I can do to stop this drip from the drain plug. Plumber's PTFE tape?

Stephen

[philthehill]

However it got there it is there as shown in the above photo. The first motion shaft is absolutely covering in grit blasting medium.
Even if there is a seal in the front cover the front cover needs to be removed and cleaned out or at least checked for grit ingress.
Better to do it now than have problems later on. To remove the front cover, clean the inside and replace the seal (if it has one) is a easy job and should be without problems.
I have been using my grit blasting cabinet this week so I know how easy it is for the grit to get into every crevice especially those you do not want the grit to get into.
Phil

[svenedin]

However it got there it is there as shown in the above photo. The first motion shaft is absolutely covering in grit blasting medium.
Even if there is a seal in the front cover the front cover needs to be removed and cleaned out or at least checked for grit ingress.
Better to do it now than have problems later on. To remove the front cover, clean the inside and replace the seal (if it has one) is a easy job and should be without problems.
I have been using my grit blasting cabinet this week so I know how easy it is for the grit to get into every crevice especially those you do not want the grit to get into.
Phil

Great. The parts are ordered and I'll do it in a few days. Thank you for the advice.

Any tips to stop the gearbox drain plug dripping? It isn't much but it is annoying. Last time I changed the oil I meticulously cleaned the threads in the plug and gearbox but that has made no difference. Shall I try some PTFE tape?


Stephen

[les]

Without wanting to labour the point, it’s shameful how a company, blasting the engine bay, could not ensure other areas were protected ——- and it looks more than residue in the bell housing. On reflection Stephen, ‘ if you want a job doing———-‘.

[svenedin]

Without wanting to labour the point, it’s shameful how a company, blasting the engine bay, could not ensure other areas were protected ——- and it looks more than residue in the bell housing. On reflection Stephen, ‘ if you want a job doing———-‘.

I know. I did complain. I wish I'd protected the gearbox myself. I think I could have "posted" the bell housing into one of those big, thick polythene sacks and then secured with garden wire. It probably didn't help that my bell housing is missing both the top and side blanking rubber bungs (I will fit new ones).

I notice that the gearbox font cover has been generously sealed with goo (I can see where it oozed out). I presume this is not necessary? Just a greased gasket?

Stephen

[les]

Never mind Stephen, I can see how disappointing this is but your obvious care over things will see a good ending.
In areas that are hard to access in the future, I do tend to use a sealer spread sparingly, after of course, cleaned surfaces. Although no doubt grease is suitable.

[philthehill]

As regards the weeping gearbox drain plug - I would use Loctite - Lock & Seal. It seals but does allow the drain plug top be released/removed when required.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235974601069 ... R5Cy15iyZQ