I agree, applying the same load without involving any of the associated wiring would be a useful indication.Bill_qaz wrote: ↑Fri Feb 07, 2025 7:40 pm Repeat your test with one headlamp disconnected then swap sides and see if it happens with left only, right only or only with both connected.
You could also try with the cars lights off temporarily connect two head lamp bulbs directly to the battery and see if it creates the same issue
This may help determine if it's a headlamp wiring issue as suggested by others. Or is it just a load issue causing the alternator to stop charging.
Not forgetting the 2 lamps need to be connected in parallel, directly from the battery positive to earth. I'll be very surprised if the charging system doesn't behave normally.
That video is quite perplexing, viewed in isolation, without knowing that the battery actually isn't charging and leaving you stranded, I'd be thinking there was something wrong with the voltmeter.BenDixon2002 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2025 8:45 pm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEylpJ8selc
I recharged my battery and reinstalled it. In this video you can clearly see the problem. First I start the car with the headlights off and the voltage jumps straight up to 14.4V. Then I turn on the lights and it immediately drops down to 12V (not charging). I have experimented and found that this is not affected by high or dipped beam (happens either way). I turn the headlights off and the voltage does not recover to charging levels. I restart the car with the headlights off again and this time it does not recover to charging levels. If I leave the car for a while (a few hours in this case), the alternator will charge again so long as the lights are off.![]()
This part of your initial post is relevant:
In that the car is clearly, somehow, damaging the Regulator of the Alternator...This is a pattern which I can now consistently predict will happen every 9 months or so, and I only average 2.4K miles a year. What I would do is then charge the battery, and replace it with a Chinese made Lucas-type alternator ordered from a reputable well known Morris parts supplier. I have been through at least five of these in 12k miles of ownership. Eventually instead of replacing the whole unit I would just replace the regulator, which would temporarily fix the problem for a few months (back up to 14V) and then fail.
I don't understand how it is causing a transient fault that recovers after a few hours, before eventually becoming a permanent fault.
It can only be a massive current draw, greater than the rating of the Alternator, but I don't understand why the wiring hasn't caught fire...
In my career as an aircraft electrician, I encountered such puzzling faults which would be traced to cable damage; the difference being that every circuit had it's own circuit breaker or fuse, which helped immensely.
I would be going over the headlamp wiring in forensic detail...
