Clutch pedal biting point.

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Jonessa
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Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by Jonessa »

Just had my new 1968 2 door dropped off, not had chance to drive it yet as no back brakes but able to drive it on the drive, the biting point seems very high almost at top of pedal movement, there are no strange noises and there is no slip, is this an adjustment issue of time for a new clutch?
King Kenny
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Re: Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by King Kenny »

Hard to say. A friend of mine had a Minor that the previous owner had fitted a racing clutch for some reason. It was almost impossible to drive. There is an adjusting rod just before the operating fork that may improve things for you.
1969 Traveller in Almond green. Owned since 1979.
simmitc
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Re: Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by simmitc »

For a 1098cc engine, you should have around 1 3/8 inches of free play measured at the top of the pedal. This is adjusted using the threaded rod and special but + lock nut between the relay shaft and the operating fork on the right hand side at the rear of the engine.
myoldjalopy
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Re: Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by myoldjalopy »

To avoid any confusion, if the free movement of the pedal is too much (i.e more than the 1 and 3/8 inches mentioned by Simon), then screw the adjusting nut towards the rear of the car. And vice-versa.
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Bill_qaz
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Re: Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by Bill_qaz »

Regards Bill
myoldjalopy
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Re: Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by myoldjalopy »

Very good. I have had a snapped clutch road twice in the last 30 years, two different Minors! Both times in the middle of BFN :-(
Jonessa
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Re: Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by Jonessa »

Thanks everyone I will give it a go once the brakes are sorted as she's fighting me a little obviously didn't like being woken up after 3 years in a dry warm garage.😂😂
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svenedin
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Re: Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by svenedin »

Jonessa wrote: Sat Feb 08, 2025 4:31 pm Thanks everyone I will give it a go once the brakes are sorted as she's fighting me a little obviously didn't like being woken up after 3 years in a dry warm garage.😂😂
The rear brake cylinders are prone to seizing especially if the car was laid up with the handbrake engaged. This can make removing the brake drums quite a fight. It is advisable to chock the wheels and leave the handbrake off if hibernating the car. Don't just replace the seized cylinders. Also drain out the old brake fluid and replace with new. It is bound to have taken on water which caused the cylinder seizing.

Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.

Stephen
Jonessa
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Re: Clutch pedal biting point.

Post by Jonessa »

Hi thanks for the advice, just awaiting rear brake pipes as all rest are copper as last owner changed them a few years ago then full fluid change and bleed everything again.
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