Something loose in the gearbox

[rocco]

I've just gone under the car for the first time today because I wanted to check on the clutch relay. As you do, I had a nose about everywhere to see if there were any missing bolts and stuff and the first thing I found was what looks like some kind of split bolt hanging loose from a hole under the gearbox.

Gearbox_loose_thing.jpg (305.02 KiB) Viewed 3620 times

Now I do know it'll be almost impossible to tell me what it is but best guesses would be very kind please. What is most likely to have come loose and should I worry? The clutch does operate but when depressing the pedal, I can sometimes feel it binding on something. It will have to come out of course and being that the rubber cover is missing, I'll put a telescopic magnet in there to fetch it.

To the experts, does anything look unusual in there?

20240831_094522_crop.jpg (661.49 KiB) Viewed 3620 times

I'm going to remove the pedals now, clean them up and inspect bushes for wear. This after swearing to myself that I was just going to drive it around and have fun for the next couple of months and then tinker with it in autumn/winter.

[philthehill]

There is nothing out of the ordinary there so no concerns called for.
The split bolt is the jiggle pin - so called because it jiggles about so keeping the bell housing drain hole clear to allow any fluids to escape and not contaminate the clutch.

[jaekl]

I don't see the throw-out bearing retention clip.

[rocco]

There is nothing out of the ordinary there so no concerns called for.
The split bolt is the jiggle pin - so called because it jiggles about so keeping the bell housing drain hole clear to allow any fluids to escape and not contaminate the clutch.

So it should be there? I've fished the bloody thing out now!

This is the retaining nut for the clutch and brake pedal bolt.

Pedal_Bolt_Nut.jpg (240.22 KiB) Viewed 3577 times

I assume there should be a rubber bush there. The brake pedal had a lot of lateral movement so it'll need sorting once I can figure out if there is a split pin holding the brake pedal to the m/c and if so, how to get it out/off.

[stuffedpike20]

I don't see the throw-out bearing retention clip.

The retention clip is there.

[les]

Rubber bush ?

[philthehill]

The bushes in the chassis leg that support the clutch pedal shaft are phosperbronze and are of 5/8" internal dia.
Any lateral play of the shaft can be compensated by putting packing washers between the special washer (No: 7 in the illustration above) and and the chassis bush (No: 6 in the illustration above.
The castellated nut (No: 8 in the illustration above) is retained by a split pin which goes through the pedal shaft.
The brake pedal is not part of the shaft but is a separate item which rotates around the clutch pedal shaft. The bushes do wear and they can be replaced and reamed to 5/8".
In most cases the shaft for the clutch wears before the brake pedal bushes and you may be able to just replace the clutch pedal/shaft (No: 5 in the illustration above) and leave the bearings as they are.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... ew-p829562

If you are not sure what things are or how to repair/replace things please ask on this forum as we are only too happy to help.

[rocco]

Thanks Les and Phil

I've put it away for the day because I've spent around 2 hours trying to release the brake pedal from the yoke. I "think" there is a split pin there but I can't see it. I've whacked it about hoping to break the pin (if it's there) but it won't move, the pin will just not budge. I see at ESM that there is a celvis pin with two holes in it. Maybe I have this one and it's tricking me somehow?

Brake_Pedal_Clevis.jpeg (245.3 KiB) Viewed 3454 times

I've also noticed that the leaf spring clamps are loose so may now shell out for a new kit. 150 shekels (exc VAT) at ESM seems fairly reasonable for a full kit but I've already spent over 400 quid. This car is becoming less of a bargain by the day!

Leaf_Spring_Clamps.jpeg (133.74 KiB) Viewed 3453 times

[les]

There should be a split pin there, some release oil might be a good idea for that area. Don’t whack things too hard, those parts are important

[Chipper]

I would use a screwdriver/small wire bush to clean up the area and parts to be worked on, use penetrating fluid as mentioned above, and try turning the clevis pin with a pair of pliers/plumbers grips back and forth until you can clearly see the split pin if it is still there.

Small modern LED torches are a boon to see into awkward spots like that!

I need to do the bronze bushes on mine again - they're getting a bit sloppy again several years after having replaced them. I had a look last week, but couldn't for the life of me get the outer bush to come loose from the chassis, without completely removing the pedal assembly and whacking it out from inside the chassis leg, so I packed it with grease and re-assembled it for the time being.

[philthehill]

The split pin is there and is against the yoke. The second hole is for the brake pedal return spring.

Spring clamps are available from ESM. No need to replace the whole spring.

The old pedal pivot bushes need to be pulled out and the new pedal bushes pulled in. You can damage the chassis leg if a hammer is used. If the chassis leg distorts then it is near impossible to get the bushes to align. When reaming the bushes you need a long enough reamer to reach across the chassis leg so ensuring reamed bush alignment.

[mike1864]

When my clutch pedal shaft needed replacing, my local garage also drilled a hole through the brake pedal boss, and tapped in a grease nipple. “With the occasional grease up, it should all last longer than 60 years this time”.

[philthehill]

I have had a grease nipple fitted to the brake pedal boss for many years (see photo below) and it is a worthwhile modification.
The grease nipple is an angled item and is positioned to clear the floor plate.

Brake pedal 1.JPG (105.48 KiB) Viewed 155 times

You can drill the clutch pedal shaft and add cross drillings to get grease to the pedal shaft bearings. Be aware -the last time I drilled a after market pedal shaft the quality of the metal was found to be poor with hard spots (more like old bed iron) and the long drill being used broke deep inside the shaft. The shaft was mounted in a lathe with a three point steady to support it so no side/miss-alignment thrust issues on the shaft or HSS drill.

[rocco]

Thanks for the tip gents, that is a great idea and one I will consider making once I have the pedals out.