Fitting new drop links - what am I doing wrong?!

[Michelle&James]

Good afternoon,

Currently rebuilding our 1959 4 door and just refitted rear axle, cleaned dampers up, new leaf springs etc and I've tried to fit the new drop links to the damper arm and whatever I do I simply cannot seem to get the tapered drop link into the arm. I've cleaned the hole up after painting the damper but it is still tight as anything and worried that I'm going to strip the thread by tightening the nut.

I used a ball joint splitter to remove the old ones and thought about trying to use that the other way round to press them on but hopefully someone has a simple suggestion that I'm missing!

Thanks,

James

[geoberni]

Are you saying the fixing doesn't go into the hole on the lever arm?.

Is the Drop Link lining up correctly?
Have you tried the link in the fitting, before fitting the top to where it hangs?
Is it the same problem both sides?

It seems very odd, it should be similar to fitting a Track Rod End; a little tap in and then pull it in further with the nut.

[Michelle&James]

It is on both sides, I can get the fixing partly through the damper arm hole enough to get the nut on but cannot get the full length of the taper through. I’ve tried gentle persuasion and that doesn’t work. It all lines up just won't go all the way through as I would expect. I’ll try to clean the holes up some more and remove the drop link from the top fixing and see if it is any better that way.

[geoberni]

Well, just for reference, as I've no idea how long it's been since you took the car apart, I just found this in my image library of random photos I've taken of my car.
But of course this link is going to be at least 20 years old when it was taken (going from when my car was major rebuilt), not a modern replacement...

20200716_174116.jpg (762.19 KiB) Viewed 317 times

[olonas]

I would expect you have compared new to old, but for reference, I have measured the tapered section on a droplink that was removed from my car - metric measurements.
Length of taper 12mm, large diameter 12.2mm, small diameter 10.6mm.
Their recent replacements are the same size. Unless Armstrong changed the dampers' arm dimensions from '59 to '62?
However, checking ESM's site there doesn't appear to be any variations depending on year.

[geoberni]

I would expect you have compared new to old, but for reference, I have measured the tapered section on a droplink that was removed from my car - metric measurements.
Length of taper 12mm, large diameter 12.2mm, small diameter 10.6mm.
Their recent replacements are the same size. Unless Armstrong changed the dampers' arm dimensions from '59 to '62?
However, checking ESM's site there doesn't appear to be any variations depending on year.

About 18 months ago we had a discussion here about the length of the damper link having changed, but it was really early on during MM production. viewtopic.php?t=75488

I mentioned there that Moss have a change point for the Damper Link, a change which is not in the Official Parts List AKD 3541 ?? ...

[olonas]

Yes, I remember that discussion.
Having checked the workshop manual, sections I and L, there's no mention of anything about changes dimensions/sizes. It does specify "All models" for both sections. The only modification, written therein, is with reference to the damper internals and a thicker backing plate with longer bolts required.

[philthehill]

The male taper of the bottom fastening is not meant to fully enter the female taper of the damper arm.
So long as the spring washer and nut can be attached and the threads of the bottom fastening protrude through the nut and the nut is tight you cannot ask for more.

[Michelle&James]

Thanks Phil, will have another look at the weekend.

[geoberni]

The male taper of the bottom fastening is not meant to fully enter the female taper of the damper arm.
So long as the spring washer and nut can be attached and the threads of the bottom fastening protrude through the nut and the nut is tight you cannot ask for more.

As illustrated in the photo I posted earlier for reference use....

[svenedin]

Where did the new drop links come from? I got mine from ESM and fitted them as part of a rear suspension overhaul fairly recently. I also fitted reconditioned dampers at the same time as both of mine were leaking.

As Phil said, the taper does not go fully into the damper arm. I will take a picture of my drop links and hope that is of some use. Incidentally, I did not use a castle nut and split pin in the top attachment of the drop link (drop link to chassis). I used a nylock nut instead.

Stephen

[svenedin]

2 photos, 1 each side of my new drop links. On one side the taper has gone in further than the other. Both sides there is plenty of thread through holding the nut on.

IMG_0044.jpeg (1.78 MiB) Viewed 143 times

IMG_0045.jpeg (2.38 MiB) Viewed 143 times