Help !
I’ve purchased a 1970 Traveller, Archie, restored about 12 years ago, well publicised at the time. The handbrake adjustment is at the end of its travel on the threaded part at the lever end. I don’t believe this is as a result of worn shoes. I’ve bought a pair of new cables and the length is identical, so no stretch is involved and I’ve since seen that the present cables were fitted only months before I bought Archie.
QUESTION: Where EXACTLY should the forward fixing be on the outer cable sheath ? Mine comes through the floor next to the prop shaft tunnel just IN FRONT OF the bulkhead of the rear seat. Should it be further to the rear ? If it were, it would shorten the amount of thread showing at the lever end and allow some adjustment.
I can find no pictures or diagrams which show where this fixing should be. Any advice welcome. I’m happy to fit new rear brake shoes but do not believe that this will make the difference required.
(This is my 7th Minor and my 4th Traveller so I understand some of the basics!)
Traveller handbrake cable
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Re: Traveller handbrake cable
Yes thats where they are on each of my travellers and saloons there is a little cut out for the nut and washer in the flange...Ken Wheeler wrote: ↑Sat Jul 01, 2023 10:09 pm Mine comes through the floor next to the prop shaft tunnel just IN FRONT OF the bulkhead of the rear seat.
Taupe
- svenedin
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Re: Traveller handbrake cable
Is the issue at the other end of the handbrake cables? Incorrect rear cylinders? Maybe the handbrake lever is non-standard?
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
Re: Traveller handbrake cable
Here's where it is on mine. This floor panel was replaced but the position was copied over from the original panel on the drivers side.
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Re: Traveller handbrake cable
Same problem with my traveller which is why I did a search in the forum and found your thread.
As above, I have two new cables installed and despite using the threaded adjustment , the handbrake only really bites when the handle is almost vertical! It will probably not be acceptable when the car has its bi annual test later this month.
It seems to me that the control point is where the cable passes through the floor ( as in the photo) where you need to remove the small plate from underneath the car in order to pull out the existing cable in the first place. Perhaps if some kind of spacer were to be placed here, it would overcome the lack of available adjustment at the lever itself.
However this would be a bodge and no doubt originally in the factory, all worked as it should without.
What to do?
As above, I have two new cables installed and despite using the threaded adjustment , the handbrake only really bites when the handle is almost vertical! It will probably not be acceptable when the car has its bi annual test later this month.
It seems to me that the control point is where the cable passes through the floor ( as in the photo) where you need to remove the small plate from underneath the car in order to pull out the existing cable in the first place. Perhaps if some kind of spacer were to be placed here, it would overcome the lack of available adjustment at the lever itself.
However this would be a bodge and no doubt originally in the factory, all worked as it should without.
What to do?
Gott schütze mich vorm Sturm und Wind und Autos, die aus England sind.
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download/file.php?id=4822[/sig]
Re: Traveller handbrake cable
I wonder whether the new cables currently being supplied are made to the same length as original cables? The mountings shown above are correct and there should be no need to make any adjustments other than as provided for in the design.
Re: Traveller handbrake cable
I fitted two new QH cables (£10 each of Ebay) and they fit and adjust perfectly.
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Re: Traveller handbrake cable
I think the answer may be in locating NOS cables. I suspect they'll fit fine.
- ndevans
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Re: Traveller handbrake cable
The handbrake should not normally be adjusted via the screws at the lever end, it should be set up once & should require little attention other than a squirt of grease into the grease nipple on the cable under the car. Routine adjustment of the rear brakes is done via the adjuster screw on the snail cam inside the brake drum, which moves the shoes outwards or inwards as necessary. This is a wheel off job that takes about 15 min, you'll need a jack & an axle stand.