boot lock
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- Minor Legend
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RE: boot lock
The ignition key ought to open it, if it's the original. If it's not the original, then you could replace the whole assembly with a more secure lock from one of the Minor Parts places. You'll have another key for it, but if your ign key doesn't work with the boot anyway...
Alternatively, it is possible to change the original-type barrel for a similar one, but it's a fiddly job, not made any easier by small rusty parts, I understand. I don't think you can change the later type 'high security' barrel for the original type.
Alternatively, it is possible to change the original-type barrel for a similar one, but it's a fiddly job, not made any easier by small rusty parts, I understand. I don't think you can change the later type 'high security' barrel for the original type.

Happy Minoring!
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
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- Minor Legend
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boot lock
The barrel with 2 keys costs £5-95, the complete handle with barrel
and 2 keys costs£15-95. The very early boot handles with external
screw fitting are slightly more expensive.
and 2 keys costs£15-95. The very early boot handles with external
screw fitting are slightly more expensive.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
boot locks
thanks willie
but how difficult is it to fit the new barrel ????
Phil
but how difficult is it to fit the new barrel ????
Phil
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- Moderator
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RE: boot locks
No idea how to remove the barrel (pin hole spring?) but it only takes 5 minutes to change the whole lock and handle.
Chris
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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1969 2-Door daily driver
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RE: boot locks
I'd say 30 minutes if the screws are stuck and if you struggle to get anything on the 2 nuts (or 3?) behind the latch mechanism that hold it to the outer skin)but it only takes 5 minutes to change the whole lock and handle.
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- Minor Legend
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handle
It is two screws RAY and they are 2BA. trouble is you need a fairly
deep socket spanner to reach the nuts because the studs are quite
long. It is worth shortening the studs to make assembly easier in
the future.
deep socket spanner to reach the nuts because the studs are quite
long. It is worth shortening the studs to make assembly easier in
the future.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
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RE: handle
Presuming you mean 2 studs, not 'two screws' (I'm a bit tired and am mildly confused).
Yes, you've reminded me that the length of the studs does make it a bit more 'interesting' to get at them - my everyday socket set was as useful as the proverbial chocolate teapot (1/2" drive therefore to podgy) but I used a socket from one of those cheap ratchet screwdriver sets and a teeny extension bar made up using things scavenged from the garage.
Yes, you've reminded me that the length of the studs does make it a bit more 'interesting' to get at them - my everyday socket set was as useful as the proverbial chocolate teapot (1/2" drive therefore to podgy) but I used a socket from one of those cheap ratchet screwdriver sets and a teeny extension bar made up using things scavenged from the garage.
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- Minor Fan
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Boot key
If you remove your handle and take it to a 'good' locksmith they'll make you one from the lock.
James
James
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- Minor Fan
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Hello,
Just to let you know I've changed a barrel. My original boot handle had some pitted chrome and I got a better second hand one to replace it. I went through the stud/screws variations too before I got the right one. I obviously wanted to fit my old barrel into the new housing. Anyway, its pretty straight forward and the main thing is that the square shaft of the handle has the corners locally peened to retain a pressed steel cover. If you hold the shaft in a vice, you can push the steel cover away from the peening (its spring loaded a bit) enough to file away the peening and make the shaft square again. Then it all comes apart reasonably easily and you can get the old barrel out. As the best manuals say - assembly is the reverse etc etc so put it all back together, hold the shaft in the vice with the jaws holding the pressed cover in the original position and bray the edges of the shaft with a chisel to make a burr to hold the cover. Do it on all 4 edges of the shaft as before and hey presto, job done. good luck.
Cheers, Colin.
Just to let you know I've changed a barrel. My original boot handle had some pitted chrome and I got a better second hand one to replace it. I went through the stud/screws variations too before I got the right one. I obviously wanted to fit my old barrel into the new housing. Anyway, its pretty straight forward and the main thing is that the square shaft of the handle has the corners locally peened to retain a pressed steel cover. If you hold the shaft in a vice, you can push the steel cover away from the peening (its spring loaded a bit) enough to file away the peening and make the shaft square again. Then it all comes apart reasonably easily and you can get the old barrel out. As the best manuals say - assembly is the reverse etc etc so put it all back together, hold the shaft in the vice with the jaws holding the pressed cover in the original position and bray the edges of the shaft with a chisel to make a burr to hold the cover. Do it on all 4 edges of the shaft as before and hey presto, job done. good luck.
Cheers, Colin.