Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

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PhilipW1039
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Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by PhilipW1039 »

Onto the next job for my recently bought Traveller. I wonder if I should have kept that BMW 120D…hmmm...😁

The woodwork needs a refresh, clearly having been fully restored already in recent years. My question is, if not disassembling the car, what sealant if any is best to use between the wood and the panels. I’m not talking about the dum dum strip around the rear wing, but the side aluminium panels, doors etc, like in my photo below.

I’ve read the Traveller’s Companion book by Ray Newell, and the full post in this section that was re-posted by Kevin, but both of these are based on dismantling the car. I don’t have a garage so plan only to remove the rear doors, side windows and runners. Caulk sealant seems to be the choice when reassembling but obviously I don’t want unsightly sealant along the joins. Is the answer to use this but paint it, or will using a microporous finish like Sikkens be sufficient to let any water evaporate?

As always, any help gratefully received.
FD46A249-D84F-4A0C-9B35-D12F3838F172.jpeg
FD46A249-D84F-4A0C-9B35-D12F3838F172.jpeg (2.68 MiB) Viewed 1028 times
Philip

Just gradually working things out...
JOWETTJAVELIN
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Re: Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by JOWETTJAVELIN »

Tiger Seal in a skeleton gun was used on mine and has not shrunk or cracked. Note that you will need to allow the wood to dry completely for a month or two before doing anything to it - which really means keeping the car indoors.
JOWETTJAVELIN
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Re: Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by JOWETTJAVELIN »

Also it should be proper wing beading which is designed to fit between the wing and the woodwork.
PhilipW1039
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Re: Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by PhilipW1039 »

Thanks ever so much for the tip re tiger seal. Not come across that stuff before.

I don’t have a way of letting the wood dry out though I’m afraid. Does using a microporous finish not overcome this?

My plan is; Cuprinol clear or similar, mixed with Creole HLS 50/50, for two or three coats, followed by 2 or 3 coats of filter 7.

If you’ve any suggestions as to quantities needed that would be really helpful as these wood products are quite expensive! Obviously I want to get it right, but buying 1 litre vs 5 litres makes a big difference!
Philip

Just gradually working things out...
JOWETTJAVELIN
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Re: Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by JOWETTJAVELIN »

1 litre will be plenty, apply thin coats. The reason for allowing the wood to dry out before treating is to allow the varnish etc to work correctly, and importantly not trapping moisture in the wood.
PhilipW1039
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Re: Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by PhilipW1039 »

i understand, thank you. I realised what you meant this morning, when I was wiping down the car after a night of rain. Don't get me wrong; I hate keeping her outside but I love the car so I will need to find some other solution.

Thanks for the pointers, and for the steer on quantities; you've just saved me a ton of money.
Philip

Just gradually working things out...
Classiccars
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Re: Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by Classiccars »

There are proper covers out there if you don't have one.Would save a lot of money in the long run keeping weather out
PhilipW1039
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Re: Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by PhilipW1039 »

That's a good shout, thank you. I had looked at them before and settled on either the Stormforce or Hamilton Classic cover, but both are nearing £200 so I thought I'd wait until Autumn, but getting it sooner may make more sense.
Philip

Just gradually working things out...
pgp001
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Re: Traveller Wood Refresh “in-situ”

Post by pgp001 »

I use a car cover which is made to measure for the Traveller.

https://www.specialisedcovers.com/storm ... or-cover-1.

It has been a very good purchase and I have had no problems with it, you can get an MMOC members discount from them as well.

Phil
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