1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Are there any recent photos of this build?
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Yes just the brakes which I have posted. I am carrying on where I left it 7 years ago. Also the pictures of the car surrounded and full of clutter are very recent and how the car was when I restarted.
However here is a photo which explains why this restoration has taken far too long and why I am slow and very unlikely to get it all done myself. It's me impaled on a metal pole!!!!!! WARNING: medical scan attached (there is no gore, it's a scan)
However here is a photo which explains why this restoration has taken far too long and why I am slow and very unlikely to get it all done myself. It's me impaled on a metal pole!!!!!! WARNING: medical scan attached (there is no gore, it's a scan)
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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
what?!?! how did that happen and I hope you're recovering well
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
I tripped over and fell backwards onto a fireguard exactly like this one. Thanks yes I'm not too bad. Slow process of recovery. I can do limited desk work but physical work is more of a challenge.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Brake back plate treated with Fertan for 48 hours. Rinsed, dried in oven, any loose black powder wiped off with a dry paper towel and now in primer.
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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Refurbished rusty n/s brake backplate and found a rocker cover I refurbished some years ago too.
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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Rebuilding fuel-pump I had in my box of parts so that I have a spare (SU LP AUA 66). Could do with a coat of paint. Old gaskets very awkward to remove. Gently scraped away with a small, very sharp, craft knife whilst sitting listening to the radio. Carb cleaner did soften the gaskets a little bit.
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1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
I checked with Burlen and they have confirmed that the parts I ordered in 2014 are suitable for E10 fuel. I have a spare SU fuel pump and a spare HS2 carburettor complete that I am overhauling to have as good spares. So it appears that the overhaul kits for pumps and carburettors have been E10 safe for quite a few years.jagnut66 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 05, 2021 1:31 pmGlad you enjoyed the challenge of rebuilding your pump and that it works fine, might be worth checking about the diaphragm with someone like Burlen Fuels (who supply SU parts), to be sure being that was seven years ago and E10 is potentially far more destructive, as you have the car off the road at present anyway.I had a look on the SU website. All they say about the pump diaphragms they supply is "suitable for all modern fuels".......
Don't forget the float.
Best wishes,
Mike.
Good Afternoon,
Thanks for your email.
These parts are suitable to accommodate the E10 Fuel.
Kind Regards
Jamie Peters-Ennis
Customer Services Advisor
Burlen Limited - The SU, AMAL & ZENITH Carburetter Companies
Spitfire House, Castle Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire. SP1 3SA
Tel: +44 (0)1722 412500 Fax: +44 (0)1722 334221 Email: customer.services@burlen.co.uk Website: http://www.burlen.co.uk
Burlen Limited is registered in England. Company Registration Number 2005550. V.A.T. Registration Number GB423 5232 84
Information contained in this email is intended for the named recipient(s) only and must not be copied, distributed or published in any way without prior consent from the author. All opinions expressed are purely those of the author. Burlen Limited and their employees can not be held legally responsible for the content of this message. Whilst we make every effort to ensure that pricing displayed is accurate and up to date, we offer no guarantee that the pricing displayed is accurate. Furthermore, we reserve the right to change the pricing at any time.
-----Original Message-----
From: SU Carb Co. [mailto:info@burlen.co.uk]
Sent: 07 September 2021 10:49
To: Sales Department <info@burlen.co.uk>
Subject: E10 Fuels
Name: Dr Stephen ******
E-mail: *****@hotmail.com
Telephone: ******
Comment: I have a question about the following product: -
1) LP fuel pump overhaul kit
2) HS2 carburettor and float overhaul kit
I ordered these parts from you in 2014 but for various reasons I have only just fitted them. I would like to know whether these 2014 components (seals, diaphragm etc) are safe to use with E10 fuel?
Best Wishes,
Stephen
Report a Non-genuine Part:
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Good to know, for peace of mind.I checked with Burlen and they have confirmed that the parts I ordered in 2014 are suitable for E10 fuel
Plus, now you have it in writing (email), should that prove not to be the case you have recourse to action against them.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Today I finished the brake repairs at the wheels and moved on to the master cylinder. Quite dismayed to find piles of rust inside the box section! I wonder how bad it actually is. I will have to get the MC out and assess properly.
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Last edited by svenedin on Thu Sep 09, 2021 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
I am in luck for getting the MC bolts out. They have been fitted the wrong way round so the nut ends are on the torsion bar side. I will fit the new MC with the bolts the correct way round. Looks like I will have a delay whilst I clean up and treat the rust in the chassis rail. Tired now and it's so hideously oily under the car that I don't fancy this job right now and I'm calling it a day!
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
I have found my bagless vacume invaluable in areas like that, which are full of dry crud and rust flakes. Used with the slim nozzle adapter fitted and in conjunction with a long scredriver for scraping / persuasion.
Nice to work with a clean(ish) enviroment, plus it means that if you need to soak nuts and / or bolts in the likes of Plusgas you are leaving them to soak and it's not just being absorbed by the surrounding rust / crud.
Best wishes,
Mike.
Nice to work with a clean(ish) enviroment, plus it means that if you need to soak nuts and / or bolts in the likes of Plusgas you are leaving them to soak and it's not just being absorbed by the surrounding rust / crud.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Excellent suggestion. I have a cordless car vacuum cleaner that will be perfect for this!jagnut66 wrote: ↑Thu Sep 09, 2021 6:34 pm I have found my bagless vacume invaluable in areas like that, which are full of dry crud and rust flakes. Used with the slim nozzle adapter fitted and in conjunction with a long scredriver for scraping / persuasion.
Nice to work with a clean(ish) enviroment, plus it means that if you need to soak nuts and / or bolts in the likes of Plusgas you are leaving them to soak and it's not just being absorbed by the surrounding rust / crud.
Best wishes,
Mike.
Edit: I did a quick hoover and early indications are (to my surprise) that the chassis member is fine. Some rust treatment and painting will be needed to slow further corrosion but the metal is thick and solid. The brake pedal return spring looks like toast though. How easy is it to get a new one on? I see a further panel can be removed to get more access to the pedal return spring.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Here you go:
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/brake ... ng-p829364
Plus these might come in handy, if you don't already have a pair:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233990321997 ... SwZExgjSN8
And not forgetting:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163839854717 ... SwbSJeRR~M
With one of these for those inaccessable places:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320923093873 ... SwXWhcB7tw
I would buy two or three cans, it's surprising how quickly you can use one up but it's good stuff IMO.
However do not use any type of waxoil anywhere near where you plan to weld or get welded, they all ignite a little too readily.
Best wishes,
Mike.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/brake ... ng-p829364
Plus these might come in handy, if you don't already have a pair:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233990321997 ... SwZExgjSN8
And not forgetting:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163839854717 ... SwbSJeRR~M
With one of these for those inaccessable places:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320923093873 ... SwXWhcB7tw
I would buy two or three cans, it's surprising how quickly you can use one up but it's good stuff IMO.
However do not use any type of waxoil anywhere near where you plan to weld or get welded, they all ignite a little too readily.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Brilliant. Thank you very much. I've used artery forceps for springs before. They are handy because they lock but this is not their intended purpose!
I have some Dinitrol 3125 corrosion protector and the Dinitrol RC 800 rust converter.
As far as the braking system goes I have the master cylinder and the hard lines aft of the MC left to do. Everything else brake related is done. I have avoided the work under the car because Xavier has been incontinent from the crankshaft rear oil seal for a long long time and everything is covered in loads of oil. Actually this oil leak has almost certainly preserved the underside of the car rather well!
I was a bit shocked by the crud revealed when I removed the panel to see the master cylinder. I suppose lots of spilled brake fluid over the years (which is hygroscopic) and the fact water can get in where the brake pipes enter the chassis member make this a particularly bad spot. Nonetheless the metal seems sound which has cheered me up.
I have the week off work next week so I hope to make more progress.
I have some Dinitrol 3125 corrosion protector and the Dinitrol RC 800 rust converter.
As far as the braking system goes I have the master cylinder and the hard lines aft of the MC left to do. Everything else brake related is done. I have avoided the work under the car because Xavier has been incontinent from the crankshaft rear oil seal for a long long time and everything is covered in loads of oil. Actually this oil leak has almost certainly preserved the underside of the car rather well!
I was a bit shocked by the crud revealed when I removed the panel to see the master cylinder. I suppose lots of spilled brake fluid over the years (which is hygroscopic) and the fact water can get in where the brake pipes enter the chassis member make this a particularly bad spot. Nonetheless the metal seems sound which has cheered me up.
I have the week off work next week so I hope to make more progress.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Don't do what I did a couple of years ago. I bought an NOS diaphragm, which when I inspected the packaging turned out to have sat on a shelf somewhere since 1964! Possibly not E10 resistant....
I did get a refund!
I did get a refund!
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Thanks. I won’t!. I notice that Burlen are explicitly stating suitable for E10 on certain products like fuel hoses but I’m a bit surprised they don’t provide clear information on their rebuild kits. In actual fact, the only “rubber” type material on the whole fuel pump is the diaphragm.Mark Wilson wrote: ↑Fri Sep 10, 2021 8:20 am Don't do what I did a couple of years ago. I bought an NOS diaphragm, which when I inspected the packaging turned out to have sat on a shelf somewhere since 1964! Possibly not E10 resistant....
I did get a refund!
On the subject of E10, my fuel tank has some pinholes and is rusty inside. I will probably need a new tank. I’m wondering whether the new tanks have any coatings on the inside that will protect from corrosion.
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Mark Wilson wrote: ↑Fri Sep 10, 2021 8:20 am Don't do what I did a couple of years ago. I bought an NOS diaphragm, which when I inspected the packaging turned out to have sat on a shelf somewhere since 1964! Possibly not E10 resistant....
I did get a refund!
Well that's what NOS means, New Old Stock, i.e. never been sold or used, just sat somewhere, probably in the same package as when it left the factory, and you're looking at spares for 50 year old cars.
In the mid-late 90s, I did some work on the Catalina that was at Duxford. They were using spares that were packaged in the early 1940s.... Spark Plug sets that were actually in Steel Cans, needing a can opener to get to them...
Basil the 1955 series II
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
If you're renewing the master cylinder and pipework etc. anyway why not upgrade to silicone brake fluid (DOT 5).I was a bit shocked by the crud revealed when I removed the panel to see the master cylinder. I suppose lots of spilled brake fluid over the years (which is hygroscopic) and the fact water can get in where the brake pipes enter the chassis member make this a particularly bad spot. Nonetheless the metal seems sound which has cheered me up.
It is a bit harder to bleed through and you do need to have new bleed nipples with good threads, so that they tighten down air tight.
It is impervious to water, will not cause rust or damage rubber brake pipes over time, plus if you spill any on the paintwork you won't need a respray. And, unless you need to pull the car apart for something else, you don't need to renew it every couple of years.
The only thing it doesn't tolerate is air leaks, hence why you need good threads on the nipples / banjos they screw into.
A little silicone grease around the threads can also help with this.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead ... RBr&adurl=
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
- svenedin
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Re: 1969 Convertible Reawakening XPK 794G
Thanks Mike that is exactly what I am doing and the reason for total renewal of the entire braking system. I have resolved that I am never doing this job again!jagnut66 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 10, 2021 1:28 pmIf you're renewing the master cylinder and pipework etc. anyway why not upgrade to silicone brake fluid (DOT 5).I was a bit shocked by the crud revealed when I removed the panel to see the master cylinder. I suppose lots of spilled brake fluid over the years (which is hygroscopic) and the fact water can get in where the brake pipes enter the chassis member make this a particularly bad spot. Nonetheless the metal seems sound which has cheered me up.
It is a bit harder to bleed through and you do need to have new bleed nipples with good threads, so that they tighten down air tight.
It is impervious to water, will not cause rust or damage rubber brake pipes over time, plus if you spill any on the paintwork you won't need a respray. And, unless you need to pull the car apart for something else, you don't need to renew it every couple of years.
The only thing it doesn't tolerate is air leaks, hence why you need good threads on the nipples / banjos they screw into.
A little silicone grease around the threads can also help with this.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead ... RBr&adurl=
Best wishes,
Mike.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen