bypass hose - again (or not)

[Rabbitt]

While trying not to raise a well-thrashed subject again (have read all the valuable and helpful information so far) ... My question is more a "what would someone else do ? ". .... After getting the ol' 57 splitter back on the road .. MOT'd and running well ...I decided to stock up on some backup parts like hoses , fan belt, gaskets, stat etc .. bound to go at some stage. Anyway .. my list didn't include a bypass hose which I admit should be on top of the list. (from what I've read). I Just overlooked it I guess. There is plenty of information submitted and it seems that popular opinion is to avoid the fluted variety or Silicone ones, and go for the straight reinforced type.
I was going to purchase 1 of each , install the straight and one (maybe fluted) as a backup (if it is true that these are easier to fit should you get left in the lurch.)
So .. in summary - the straight-type bypass hose preferably requires water pump removal to fit - and the fluted/or/Silicone might not , with a bit of fiddling and profanity. - True ?
What about the "bypass hose adapter 12A2075" ? How is that part actually fitted, is it easy to fit - and does it permanently help the whole bypass issue.
The bypass hose installed currently in the car looks as though it is an original (fluted with a fabric-type covering) and most likely never been changed since '57.

[greendefender123]

You can just use heater hose for the bypass. Thats all you get when you order a solid one. If yours looks ok just order a fluted one to carry as a spare. If it looks perished just replace it for a solid one. I replaced mine when i changed my head gasket tho you can do it by removing the water pump. Some seem to be able to change them in situ even with a solid one but i couldnt manage it.

[philthehill]

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/adaptor-b ... soc=136575

The bypass hose adapter just screws into the head.
It can be a bit of a devil to remove. One way to remove the old adapter is to drill out just short of the threads and then uncoil the remains of the adapter.
Make sure that whatever adapter you purchase it has the correct thread which is 5/8" UNS as some are being supplied with a 5/8" UNF thread which will not screw in.
If it has not got a facility to tighten the adapter I just cut a screw driver slot in the top as per original and secure in place with Loctite lock & seal or similar.
Unless you have made alternative arrangements for the bypass of coolant when the engine is starting to warm up etc. you should retain the bypass hose facility.