Oil feed banjo bolt

[Trickydicky]

I have an oil leak from the above connection. Looking at the list at the top of the forum it does not list a torque setting for the bolt. Does anyone know what it should be when I replace the copper washer?

[philthehill]

There are two copper washers (Pt No: AED172 (MOSS)) fitted so you need to replace both.

Even with new copper washers it is best to anneal them before fitting.

The union should be done up tight using reasonable pressure on a standard length 15/16" A/F spanner - (a standard length 15/16" A/F Britool ring spanner is 11" centre to centre).

[philthehill]

Postscript to above.
Having searched without success the various manuals I have for a torque setting for the banjo bolt I decided this morning to work out a torque setting for the banjo bolt.
A banjo bolt with the two copper washers with the oil feed pipe to the filter was fitted to a spare block.
The banjo bolt was tighten with the 15/16" Britool ring spanner but I felt that using the 11" Britool spanner too much torque could easily be applied if care is not taken - therefore a 15/16" socket fitted to a Draper 9" socket handle was used to tighten the banjo bolt to what I considered to be the correct tightness.
A Britool torque wrench and 15/16" socket was then applied to the banjo bolt and the torque setting of the torque wrench adjusted till the torque wrench just overcame my hand tightening.
That torque setting for overcoming my tightening of the banjo bolt was 25 lb ft.
Any tighter and all that happens is that the copper washers get squashed and distorted.
I would be happy to use the 25 lb ft setting for the banjo bolt.
Re-torque after the first heat cycle.
I hope the above is of help.
Phil

[Trickydicky]

As usual Phil your the font of knowledge, many thanks for taking the time and trouble to work out the figures.

[Trickydicky]

The replacement copper washers are just a flat washer. I have an old engine that will never run that I bought to learn how to strip one down and interestingly the copper washers on the banjo bolt are single use compressible washers.
Anyway the cause of the leak was due to the old top washer not fitting correctly which caused a burr stopping it from seating correctly.
Washers replaced as per Phil's advice and the leak is cured.

[GavinL]

The MG Midget Leyland manual lists torque setting for the ' oil pipe Union adaptor - oil filter head' as 19 to 21 lbft, which I assume is the same item, as Moss call the banjo bolt a union bolt. If useful I could collate and publish the relevant Midget torque settings, as I suspect it includes a number of torque settings which would apply to Minors which aren't in the Minor manual.

[philthehill]

GavinL
Please correct me if I am wrong but I believe the part you are referring to is Adapter Filter Head Pt No: TCZ106 or Pt No: TAM2119 (both MOSS Pt Nos).
The adapters quoted above can be either a taper thread or straight thread. With the straight thread I prefer to use a Dowty Washer instead of the usual washer fitted.
The torque setting for the adapter is as you say - as it is steel into alloy it can be easily over tightened resulting in stripped threads or if the taper thread is used overtightening can result in the alloy casting being broken/burst.

The Bolt Banjo Pt No: 2A715 is the part being referred to in this thread.

Many of the missing Minor engine torque figures can be found in the Marina/Ital workshop manual.
Do not restrict looking to only the 1098cc or 1275cc Marina/Ital as some same parts with the same Pt Nos are used by the Marina/Itals with the larger engine.
Phil

[GavinL]

Phil, good point, I'd forgotten about the adaptor, so yes this isn't the torque in question for the banjo bolt. Gavin