Waxoyl

[hornmeister2000]

Can someone please tell me the places on a Minor which should be treated with waxoyl, as I'm going to do Naomi when she's back from the body shop...

[chickenjohn]

I just posted a huge post on where to squirt the waxoyl and the damn thing dissapeared when I clicked submit.

I don;t have time to re-do it all now as I've just found out I've got another free evening to work on the Traveller!!

I'll come back to it if no-one else does in the mean time!

[Willie]

Could write a book but here goes. Remove one bolt completely
from each door hinge and spray THIN Waxoyl in all directions through
the holes. With the windows wound UP spray inside the doors all
around the lower parts. (Clear out the drain holes when it has set).
Spray inside all chassis legs and box sections using the drain holes
and/or spraying from the top when the gearbox cover is off. Remove
the rear quarter upholstery panels and thoroughly spray down into
the rear sill area which is exposed. Spray into the rear seat support
box sections. The boot floor benefits from a good dousing particularly
where the right and left open ends of the chassis box sections are
visible, you can push a wand up there and spread the Waxoyl a good
way up the box section. It is useful to spray inside the double skin
section of the boot lid too as they rust around the lower section.
When I say THIN Waxoyl I mean of watery consistency. Ideally
you will have had the car in the sun all day and the can of wax
too. If not then stand it in very hot water.(not the car)! I personally
spray liberally inside the wings around the headlamps etc, and the
whole of the underside except the exhaust. I drive it for weeks until
there is an accumulated layer of 'road dust' stuck to the Waxoyl
and then I spray it again! I find that this only needs an annual
inspection with a cap full of the stuff and a brush to touch in any
small areas which have worn thin. It doesn't look pretty but it
sure stays rust free.

[adritch]

Willie,

How much Waxoyl do you think is needed to do all the work as suggested in your post. I'm about to reach the point in my works where I need to do this, and Bull Motif do a good deal on 5 litre cans so need to guestimate how many I need to buy.

Thanks,
Adam.

[salty_monk]

I I used around 7.5 litres & about 2.5 litres of white spirit to thin it with & clean the equipment up afterwards - it's a real burger of a job... Really messy & unpleasant & blocks really easily.
Don't even think about doing it when the sun's not shining, do thin the waxoyl & do stand the tin in some water (as high up the can as poss) straight from the kettle. Clean your equipment through immediately after. Once you start spraying try not to stop for any period of time especially if using a cavity pipe extension, it will go solid!!

There is a company that advertises (sorry name evades me) that clean it all up, do all the cavities & the underside clean up after them & charge you £300 for the pleasure. They do supply the wax though. I spent about £80 on wax & equipment to do all of thoses things & it was so unpleasant £300 sounds like a good deal!!

[Willie]

I agree with 'SALTY' buy two 5 ltr tins which will leave you some
over which can be used as and when necessary for the annual
touch ups. There are obviously areas which need re-application
such as the length of the sill sections which get blasted by water
and grit thrown up by the front wheels. This is the reason that
the jacking points on the cross member rot so easily, they are
bombarded with water and dirt. Also,ensure that you coat the
hole through which the prop shaft passes on the centre cross-
member. It is made up of laminations of steel and you need
to stop water seeping between the lamiinations and starting the
rot. It is all worth it though since you have spent time/money
on your Minor. It is eleven years since I rebuilt my convertible
and it is as free of rust now as the day I finished the rebuild.

[Onne]

It cost me £365 to have a complte inside out Dinitrol treatment. They clean the car, than spray ALL cavities with Dinitrol ML, and the use Dinitrol Metallic to cover the underside, as well as the inner door skins, and rear panels. works a treat, I think it was a good investment

[Willie]

More valid to give us your opinion in ten years time!

[adritch]

Spent an enjoyable(?) 7 hours underneath the car wire brushing and priming on Saturday in preperation for painting then Waxoyling.

What is the best method of application. Seems to me to be the choice of Salty's suggestion of standing the can in v hot water and I guess using the hand pump Waxoyl kit, or using a schutz gun and compressor. If you use a schutz gun though you can't stand the can in hot water during use, is that when you need to thin it? Also does a schutz gun give a more consistant spray having a higher pressure behind it? The extension tube with a schutz gun also looks a bit more professional having a spray head than the Waxoyl version which looks like a length of plastic tubing with a nail stuck in the end.

[Willie]

If you have access to a Schutz gun then it will be much better
than the Waxoyl type which is usually ok only for the first application.
From then on it is usually very hit and miss.

[salty_monk]

As Willie says with the Waxoyl kit. I did get some reliability out of mine by washing everything in white spirits (and blowing through all the pipes with the stuff which is heave inducing.... ) & then washing in hot soapy water.
The extension is a nightmare, it does work but is very uncontrollable & blocks incredibly easily. To use it I would say you need a hot day, hot water & around 35-50% thinned down with white spirits. Even then it can block as soon as you stop the flow...

[chickenjohn]

Spent an enjoyable(?) 7 hours underneath the car wire brushing and priming on Saturday in preperation for painting then Waxoyling.

That would be much less work than 7 months of evenings and weekends spent welding! Or longer, there was a chap in Practical classics who restored a completely rotten SII traveller and it took him 7 years!