First Time Engine Rebuild

[philthehill]

Edd
You can remove the tie bar without much difficulty with the car down on its wheels.
Handbrake hard on and chock either side of the front wheels.
Slacken off the tie bar front nut after removing the split pin if fitted and then remove the rear bolt that passes through the tie bar fork and then remove the tie bar to access the engine mount tower bolts.
Count the number of turns to get the tie bar nut off and then tighten it the same number of turns when tightening/re-assembling.
Assemble in reverse order but put the bolts head up and the nuts on the underside of the chassis leg - it makes it easier if at any time in the future you have to remove the towers.
If you do need to pull the lower suspension arm forward (unlikely) when assembling use a ratchet strap.
Phil

[edd_barker]

Thanks Phil!

They came off no problem, I will renew the bushes when replacing.

Cheers,

Edd

[edd_barker]

From casual browsing on the forum, I've realised I have not replaced the crank tail bush. I will have to check tomorrow what state it is in/if there is even one in there! Is this replaceable with the engine assembled? It's not mentioned in the Haynes....

Thanks,

Edd

EDIT - I've found an old forum post from BMC on packing with grease and tapping a dowel in. I will have a go at this tomorrow, and hopefully not find any other surprises! This may explain why my 1st motion shaft I bought to align clutch waggled around so much...

[philthehill]

Edd
If the bush will not come out by using the grease method - tap the plain bush and screw a threaded rod into it and with a plate and nut placed over it - tightening the nut will pull the bush out.
A less refined version of BMC Special Tools 18G284/18G284 AAF.
Soak the new bush in engine oil overnight before fitting.

[oliver90owner]

Mechanics fitting another engine into my daughter in law's car used bread to remove the bush from the exchange engine. Probably better than grease as easier to keep loading it into the hole, and less likely to squirt out at high speed!

[edd_barker]

Yes I read about the bread trick! I must admit that I can't imagine finding dowel a tight enough fit to not let grease squeeze past. I think I will give it a try.

I am saying this but haven't actually checked the bush yet. Does it tend to wear? I do have a new one for comparison, but I will avoid replacing it if I can?

Cheers,

Edd

[philthehill]

Edd
The bush can and does wear.
I personally would change the bush as you currently have the opportunity to do so.
Phil

[edd_barker]

Finally the forum is back!! Been flying blind all Xmas.

Is there a way to tell which way round (2 options) a new clutch cover would go? Am replacing the whole assembly as part of a kit. The old cover on the other engine is marked up to ensure it goes back the same way, so I have deduced that there is a correct orientation, but cannot see any difference either way as long as it goes on the dowels.

RE the bread trick to remove spigot bush, worked an absolute treat! Easiest job I have done on this engine. Refitting was trickier, I used a socket and then an old gear shaft to see it home.

Thanks,

Edd

[philthehill]

1098cc flywheel - The clutch cover/pressure plate can be fitted to suit either dowel. It will not make any difference if the clutch cover/pressure plate is fitted or turned through 180 degrees.
Only if the crankshaft pulley/timing gear/crankshaft/flywheel and clutch cover have been balanced will it make any difference and then the respective parts are marked to ensure that when reassembled the balance is maintained.
The bread trick is good.

[edd_barker]

Thanks Phil!

I read the many posts on bypass/thermostat drilling etc, and as I don't want to drive around with my heater valve open, which blows hot air in whatever setting the actual heater is on, I have drilled 2 3mm holes in the thermostat.

The gasket trick to level the exhaust and inlet manifolds didn't go exactly to plan. One extra gasket wasn't enough, two was too much. I put two in assuming that 3 gasket layers would compress enough, but instead the studs bent slightly so the thick washers were pressing on inlet and exhaust. There is no play so I will see how it goes, if it leaks I will have to fit new studs, one extra gasket layer and then grind down the thick inlet flange. The thick washers are the same diameter is a Dremel grinding disc, so I wonder if using that vertically in the dremel pillar attachment very carefully might grind the exact recess I need, nice and flat. A project for another day!

Thanks,

Edd

[philthehill]

Build up the difference with an already used gasket as after first use it will be compressed to a more suitable thickness.
I always smear the inlet/exhaust manifold gasket with general purpose grease as it keeps the gasket supple and makes the gasket bed in quicker and as a bonus the gasket can be re-used with impunity.

[edd_barker]

Anyone have a picture of how the heated manifold is plumbed in on their 940 head conversion?

I am going to run heater return to the rear of the manifold, then I need to butcher an old copper pipe to reach from the front of the manifold to the radiator hose. Is there a better way?

Does it matter which way water flows round the heater matrix? From memory it is drivers side inlet, passenger side outlet.

Fingers crossed to fire it up Thursday! If I can figure out this HIF38. What do people use to block pipes on it?

Cheers,

Edd

[Declan_Burns]

Edd,
I didn't connect the heated manifold at all.
Here's a photo on how to connect up the HIF carb.
Regards
Declan

[edd_barker]

She runs!!!

Hectic day getting final bits plumbed in, trip to motor factors to buy anti freeze and a coolant hose. Span it over with no plugs and disconnected from alternator, oil pressure light went out. Then noticed a significant petrol leak from carb (getting dark at this point of course) so whipped it off, float lid off, turned the big o-ring/seal over and put some grease on it, this stopped the leak.

Initial start, starter motor really struggled to spin it, possibly battery although it is fairly new and I did charge it, connecting to a big jump-starter allowed it to fire up. Ran ok, idled down nicely with choke fully in. Did two laps of the cul-de-sac, pretty rough but haven't touched timing or mixture so will commence tuning on Monday.

Bad news - fairly significant leak coming from between block and back plate it looks like, not pouring out but a drip every few seconds. You can see it running down the drivers side of the backplate, viewed from front of car lying underneath. Could be the scroll? At this stage I cannot face taking engine out again so will fiddle with getting it running nicely, keep an eye on it then take it from there!

I am POSITIVE this is not the end of the thread as there will be many more questions, but technically my 'first time rebuild' is complete! Many thanks to everyone who has advised and contributed, particularly philthehill who even helped in person, and BMC, it is a real shame he is not here to know that I got there in the end, with his and everyone's help. Thank you MMOC.

Edward and 611 YUG

[philthehill]

Edd
Well done
Phil

[peterdjon]

Edd,
Well done indeed!
I've followed the ups and downs of your rebuild with interest and admiration, and have learned much I didn't know previously.
This has been an example of the forum at its best.
Peter.