Initial tracking setting

[biomed32uk]

So over the past couple of months I have overhauled my front suspension and steering rack, so the whole lots been off and out.

The column and rack were not set on the splines properly, so the offset had been compensated for in the tracking adjustments, in other words the whole lot is now out and is going to require checking and setting by a garage, not a problem.

Does anyone have any good tips for getting an initial setting that is nearly right, must be something we have all done following a rebuild but I can't seem to find too much about it.

[simmitc]

The settings that you need for a standard Minor are:
Toe-in
3/32 inch OR 2.4 – 2.5 mm OR 0.8 degrees

For an initial setup disconnect the track rod ends from the rack, centre the rack, remove the column and re-fit so that the indicator cancelling button is in the centre of the indicator switch. Now screw both rod ends back on to the rack the same number of turns each side and about half way along the threads. By sight, just see if the wheels look approximately parallel. If yes, then that should do for starters, if no, then adjust both side by the same amount until the wheels look about right.

When driving to the place with the gauge be aware that the car may handle differently depnding on how close (or not) you have got the setting. Ensure that the workshop sets properly by adjusting each side equally until they have the settingsd above. If they just want to set them fully parallel (that's what we do with the modern ones) then look for somwhere better.

[biomed32uk]

Thanks for that, the rack is centred up, pinion back in the rack in the correct place, and with the marker at 6 o'clock. Column is set correctly with the cancelling button in the middle at 9 o'clock, the slot in the clamp also ends up at 6 o'clock like that.

I will do it by eye, I was thinking of trying to roughly measure it in relation to the chassis leg. Fortunately where I go is only a mile up the road, and the guy understands Minors, did his apprentice time on them.

[greendefender123]

My father does all his own tracking whether it's his xk8, mothers car, the land rover etc. He uses builders string tied to axle stands each side of the car and measures off the wheels. Its accurate within a mm. Tho he checks afew times and drives forwards backwards aswell.

[oliver90owner]

One can easily(?) set the track on a vehicle with reasonable accuracy.

All one needs is a smooth, flat and level surface where the car can be rolled backwards and forwards.

Set up a couple of fiducial points close to the wheels, at centre height, and physically measure the gaps to the rims as accurately as possible. Roll the car to be level with the rim at the other side and measure again. Simple as that.

Allow the suspension to settle between any changes, by giving a bounce and roll, before checking again.

Finding the difference made by changing the track by, say, one turn on each track rod end will reveal how much that alters the track, so finer alterations can be accomplished by turning the track rod ends by one or two 'flats' (of the clamping nuts). Obviously, with care and knowing the wheels need to be 'toed in' the markers can be set very close to the back measurement, knowing the forward measurement will be a little longer when tracking is correct.

That is basically how it was done in days long gone. The mechanic obviously had a more rigid arrangement of markers on an extended frame - and knew, from experience, how much change to make for any given deviation from specification. Clearly not as accurate as the later optical devices or the modern computer readout machines - but close enough.

Apart from excessive wear, the steering will likely 'wander' if tracked without 'toe in'.

RAB

Greendefender got there before me. And yes, I used to track my fords and Landy in the '70s snd '80s. They needed more rgular chacks back then.

[biomed32uk]

Well I did the initial trackig via the string method, and I wasn't far out.

I bought myself one of the Trakrite gauges that you drive over, and it seems to work very well. Done the final settings with that and took her for a drive and all seems well. Steering wheel is off centre so I have done a half turn adjustment each side to see what effect that has the next time I take her out.

Going to let everything settle down now for a few miles and will then check it again.

Certainly a different car with the front end overhaul, poly bushes and a nylon bush in the steering column top, steering wheel not moving all over the place now. All feels much tighter at the front end now.