Rear brakes sticking

[quee2646]

You probably haven't heard of this in a Minor before, but my rear brakes are sticking...

As far as I can tell, the rear cylinders haven't been replaced in a while. Before I buy new ones, could anybody suggest any other parts of the system I should be checking first? Could this be cured by simply bleeding the whole system and replacing with new fluid?

Also, the previous owner fitted servo assistance - not sure is this could be a factor. But it is only the rear brakes sticking (at least the rear wheels get hot, not the front).

Thanks!

[panky]

It could simply be over adjustment on either the shoes or handbrake, try backing them off a click before stripping it all down.

[quee2646]

That's what I thought when it happened a few months ago. But it has since started sticking again.

[panky]

Best to take the drums off and see what's what and give everything a good clean with brake cleaner spray. The you can then check if the cylinders are moving freely or leaking. If all is well slacken off the hand brake, with the two adjusting nuts by the lever inside the car, then adjust the shoes. Once that's done adjust the hand brake up again if required, hopefully that's all that needed.

[philthehill]

The rear brakes on a Minor should never be adjusted so that the brake shoes are left close/touching (to) the drum.
If they are done up close to the drum the cylinder pistons will have no travel and they will then stick through lack of exercise.
The rear drake drum should be able to rotate freely 'without' any drag from the brake shoes.
I always recommend that the adjuster is backed off at least one (or more) notch from totally free/no drag rotation of the drum.

[quee2646]

Thanks.

I've taken both drums off and the adjusters are now slackened 2-3 clicks so that there is no drag. I'll see if they stay that way...

[ManyMinors]

It is just possible that your rear flexible brake hose is perished. I have encountered this. When old, the hose can swell internally and act like a valve. They are only about £6 so if the cylinders are working OK and you're still at a loss, it is well worth replacing the hose

[quee2646]

Is there a way I can test if the hose is perished first?

And is there a way I can test whether the cylinders are okay?

[mogbob]

Hose perished ?
If the rubber " has had it " you may be able to see the deterioration on the out side but in some cases the damage is internal.
If you get someone to press the brake pedal you may be able to see or more likely feel the hose swelling up.Car on axle stands , wheels chocked , etc
Safest thing , if there is any doubt , is to replace for the cost involved.
Cylinders OK ?
A dry condition is the first indicator = no leaks , great. Working ? As suggested before , handbrake slackened off , brake
adjuster not binding. Get your assistant to apply foot brake and hold it down , whilst you attempt to rotate the brake drum.
If you can turn the drum with no resistance , the cylinder is stuck. You can put fresh seals in but they are cheap so easiest to replace.
Do the same for the other side and if happy ,re=adjust the handbrake , put a dab of grease on the handbrake cables whilst your at it and then replace the wheels.
Good luck with it.
Bob