confusion

Post by **Peetee** » Sun Mar 20, 2005 12:40 pm

Armed with an official workshop manual I thought it would be a breeze finding the right consumer for the wires I removed from the short bit of loom from the bulkhead down towards the dizzy, dynamo, coil etc..
Not so, they don't seem to match the colour table in the wiring diagrams. For example, the only large guage wire I have must go to the dynamo. It is Brown with yellow but according to the diagram on page N.29 the dynamo should have a yellow or yellow with green wire.

It's a 1966 saloon and the wires I have loose are:
Large Brown with yellow
Off white with black
Off white
Green with brown
Brown with green
Off white with red.

By off white I'm suggesting it could have been white at one time but looks cream - but then cream doesn't appear in the wiring colours

Any help greatfully recieved.

Post by **57traveller** » Sun Mar 20, 2005 3:03 pm

Peetee - have a look on page N44, hopefully you have this in your book, the same wiring diagram is reproduced in Haynes Manual. You will find the colours correspond. i.e. brown/yellow (dynamo output) and brown/green (field) are shown at the dynamo. Hopefully the remaining colours can be traced on this same diagram.

Post by **Peetee** » Sun Mar 20, 2005 8:20 pm

Cheers 57, that does correspond.

However, now there seems to be a problem elsewhere. I'm not getting any response from the ignition switch on the first or second position - no warning lights on the dash, no fuel pump tick, no starter response etc. Fuses appear OK, circuits at the control box go live when the battery is connected. Any clues?

Post by **Alec** » Mon Mar 21, 2005 8:37 am

Hello Peetee,
the ignition is not fused. The feed to the ignition switch is from A1 terminal of the control box, Brown\Blue cable. There is a second Brown\Blue cable feeding the lights, do the lights work? If not there is a Brown wire which connects to the A terminal on the control box, this is fed from the battery side of the starter solenoid. Should this be connected on the wrong side of the solenoid, or not connected at all then you will not have lights or ignition.

Alec

Post by **Peetee** » Mon Mar 21, 2005 10:16 pm

Yes Alec, It's in the correct position, this wasn't disturbed nor was the wiring at the control box.
The fuses look OK but as a precautionary measure I will replace them in case they have failed out of sight behind the metal endcaps.

Post by **Alec** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 7:47 am

Hello Peetee,

if you have lights, and if the control box was untouched you need to check the ignition switch itself.

Alec

Post by **Peetee** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 7:40 pm

Before reading this bear in mind the car is -ve earth

OK, the side lights work.
The ignitions switch has a live feed (brown/blue) and connecting a voltmeter accross to either of the other two terminals on the rear give a circuit. However, connecting that live feed directly to either of those wires does not illuminate the headlights (with light switch in second position) or the starter.

Fuse box
35A fuse -ve at both ends
10A fuse +ve at both ends

Moving to the control box. With ignition off I have:
terminals 1 & 2 - live circuit when voltmeter connected to -ve battery
terminals 3,4 & 5 - live circuit when voltmeter connected to +ve battery

I tried to get a response from the starter by bypassing the solenoid but the two terminals just sparked.

I seem to have a live feed at both coil terminals so is something wrong there? also where does the supressor fit onto the coil?

Post by **Willie** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:33 pm

PEETEE... let's concentrate on one thing at a time. If your side
lights are working then the LIGHTING SWITCH is being supplied ok
via your brown/blue lead. When you switch to headlights the
switch supplies them via the BLUE lead which passes through a
'bullet' connector on its way to the DIP SWITCH. From there it
goes to the headlamps on either a blue/white or blue/red lead
depending on wether it is on 'dipped' or 'main beam'. Assuming that
your headlamps are properly connected to chassis (i.e. you haven't
just fitted fibreglass front wings) they should light up. It should be
straightforward to check where the live feed is disappearing. In a
nutshell,if the sidelights work but the BLUE lead is not live when you
switch to 'headlights' then the lighting switch is not working.
PLUS,If you are checking the coil terminals to chassis they WILL both read
Live with ignition on and the points OPEN (or the white/black wire
disconnected from the dizzy side contact) ,so that part is normal.

Post by **Peetee** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 11:13 pm

OK lights. Thinking back I have fitted new underfelt and bulkhead insulation so I have probably forgotten to refit the connector to the dip switch (D'oh).
That still leaves the big problem - no response on the dashboard ignition circuits, starter or fuel pump.

Post by **woo** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 2:07 am

Peetee.

If I've got this right it sounds like you are at the stage where turning on the Ignition doesn't activate the Ignition Light, Petrol Pump or Coil. If I've got it wrong ignore the rest of the post.

Have you tried a continuity test?

1) Test continuity of Brown/Blue wire between A1 terminal on Control Box and the Ignition Switch.

2) Test continuity of White wire between Ignition Switch and A3 terminal on the Fuse Box.

3) Test continuity of White wire between Ignition Switch and and the Ignition Warning Light.

4) Test continuity of the Yellow wire between the Ignition Warning Light and the D terminal on the Control Box

If all four are ok,

5) Turn on Ignition and test continuity between (i) A1 terminal on Control Box and A3 terminal on Fuse Box, and (ii) A1 terminal on Control Box and D terminal on the Control Box.

If test 5 is ok Ignition Switch is fine so goto 7), if not,

6) Check connections at Ignition Switch. If connections are good, suspect the Ignition Switch.

7) Test the continuity of the White wire from the A3 Terminal of the Fuse Box to both the SW side of the Ignition Coil and the Petrol Pump.

If both tests in 7 are good goto 8 if not check connections at A3, Petrol Pump and Fuel Pump.

8 Turn on the Ignition Switch and test the continuity between the A1 Terminal on the Control Box and the White wire connection at the Ignition Coil and Petrol Pump.

At this stage test 8 should be good, if not I would still suspect the Ignition Switch.

Post by **Peetee** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:17 am

Thats lots of helpful advice thanks. However, how do I perform a continuety test?

Post by **woo** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 12:51 pm

A continuity tester, in probably its simplest form, is a small electrical screwdriver with a battery and a small bulb inside it and a wire coming out of the top of it with a crocodile clip attached. If you touch the crocodile clip to the screwdriver tip the bulb will light up because you have completed the circuit. So if you put the crocodile clip on one end of a piece of wire that you are testing and the screwdriver tip on the other end, the bulb should light up. If it doesn't it would probably mean a broken wire, because the circuit isn't being completed. Or if you put the crocodile clip on one side of a switch and the screwdriver tip on the other side of the switch, the bulb should light up when the switch is turned on and go off when the switch is turned off. If the bulb doesn't light up either time it would mean that the switch isn't working properly.

Do you get the idea?

Post by **Welung666** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 1:03 pm

Most excellently explained there Woo

Some thing like this Peewee

(didn't you just know that was gonna stick )

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... =&doy=23m3

Lee

Post by **woo** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 6:15 pm

Peetee

Print this out http://www.woolley.me.uk/woo/moggiewiri ... Wiring.jpg
It is a diagram of only the ignition circuit. It should help you see the wood from the trees.

I have one of the testers that Welung points to. It does the same job as I mentioned in my previous post except the wire and crocodile clip is your body! So to test a piece of wire you touch one end of the wire with the screwdriver blade while a finger touches the top of the screwdriver, and touch the other end of the wire with the other hand (it could be a foot, nose or any other part of your anatomy). If the bulb lights up the wire is ok. Basically your body completes the circuit. So don't use it on live mains circuits

Post by **Peetee** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 8:39 pm

SORTED!

Just to be on the safe side, before I tried the continuity test I removed and cleaned the starter solenoid (and added a substitite earth cable), cleaned the wiring connections on the fuse and control boxes and replaced the fuses. Bingo. I'm none the wiser as to the true cause but hey, so what!
Joe is a bit reluctant to start and to be honest, as the neighbours have just brought home their new baby I thought I'd save them the disturbance of repeted attempts to fire the old thing up.
Tomorrow I'll put new leads dizzy cap etc on and give it another go. Fingers crossed for L2B folks!!