Brake questions from a born again owner

[Scalli]

OK, new on here and just bought myself a 1957 4 door, last time I owned one was 1987 and it was a 1972 van. Now back in the day, being in my early twenties that thing got driven like any youngster would drive a motor and the brakes always kept me out of trouble, but the ones on this one are not that good at all. From the depths of my memory I remember these things being a bit of a pig to bleed ( do I remember right that you pump the pistons out on the rear without the shoes on, then open the bleed nipple then push the pistons back in?) I have a long pedal which I can cope with after years of old Mini's and series Land Rovers but dont seem to have much brake even after pumping it. I do also seem to get a shake on the steering if used with any sort of anger or sudden braking. Now the car seems genuine and been told it has new brakes and can see the new pipework and cylinders, but am I right in thinking the early ones only had small drums where as the later ones had larger ones and if so is it just a case of backplates, drums and shoes to upgrade?

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

Hi and welcome to the messageboard!

Older minor had 7' front and rear drums up until around 1962 when the fronts were changed to 8'. Its a simple process to change to the bigger one, the same cylinders are used. If you use the bigger druims you can also get better quality Mintex shoes which give a much better brake.

Have you tried adjusting the brakes to see if it takes up any slack in them, thers no self adjusters on a minor.

Bleeding, no you dont pump them out on the back but it is a good idea to disconnect the handbrake lever when bleeding them. They are generally not to bad to bleed but saying that Ive also had a a few experiences were the air became blue!

[bmcecosse]

Never had the slightest problem bleeding - gravity works well in Ecosseland. And certainly no monkeying around with rear cylinders - where on earth did that idea come from ?? 8" front drums are better, and 9" drums from a Wolseley 1500 are even better! Both are simple bolt-on jobs.

[Scalli]

Something in the back of my mind (though it was the 80's I last worked on one) was telling me the rear bleed nipple was on the pipe and not the cylinder so air could get trapped if you didn't prime the cylinder and push it back to the bleed nipple. Probably thinking of another old motor I had back in the day.

[bmcecosse]

It's never troubled me... air rises above fluid.... so assuming the bleed valves are upright all will be well.