Traveller Project 2015

[tim_jnv]

Hi All,

This will be my main focus for next year: 1964, traveller with a 74reg of course!

This had been started some 10-15 years ago but due health problems with the people doing the work stalled around 5-6years ago I am now hoping to continue and finsh whilst the there is no signicant rust, just surface I am bit unhapy with previous welding as shown due area been welded over rather that cut out and splicded in! and some areas look to be brazed, should 1 continue making the 'best of a bad job' or pay around 2k would require boxing sections bothsides inside of a-posts, floor and welds redone on cross member for it be done as I would like!

also any tips on on traveller wood and guttering would be of great help!

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[tim_jnv]

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[bmcecosse]

Depends what's hidden under the filler - but honestly it doesn't look too bad - I've seen much worse ! What's your plan for the timber - all new ? Or clean up/bleach/re-oil ??

[tim_jnv]

Thanks for the input! that seems to be the opinion coming through! mainconcern is there seems to be brazing rather in the same area as main x-member

hoping to get away with what we have for timber and doing as as you describded. The rear lower sections are in bad way. and not certain on top behind guttering, if i can aviod doing much in the Way of removing the whole wood section would be nice as the head lining is in remarkable condition! and heard, seen the guttering and roof can be awkward in refitting?

[whyperion]

Metal bits : replace the Boxing plates and sills, and drivers side chassis leg, and bit of missing metalwork n/s inner wing in engine bay. Fit two new front steel wings. Paint (in a rose taupe variation) inc engine bay. New passenger door or good s/h or get bottom welded up.

Clean underside , prime and stonechip.



Wheels blasted and painted. Probably in shade of white. Normal brightwork renewed as required.

Wooden bits: Replace rear end ladder section. Sand down all wood and finish with Sikkens 2-stage system, caulking gaps in the wheelarch sections. Refit rear doors.

Electrical bits : remove all and re-built wiring loom. Remove wiper bits to allow painting.

Find all the interior from family loft and front panels from other storage.

Source replacement radiator.

Running gear - clean as required , may inspect engine for wear (1098) but tempted just to re-fit, overhaul brakes as needed.

Deadline: before the garage it is housed in gets demolished (2017/18) but should be quicker than that dependent on other commitments, will be faster if the boat that has most of its wood in the working space was elsewhere.

[kennatt]

brazing is not accepted for MOT.its not strong enough. If its on a structural area you may need to have it ground off and the area rewelded properly.

[les]

When you ask if you should carry on and make the best of a bad job, It is of course, up to how you feel about workmanship but I wouldn't expect too many people to say yes to that question, how depressing it would be to spend months working on something you think is not right to start with.

[bmcecosse]

Where is the supposed 'brazing' ? If it's just a patch on a wing - something like that, then it's not a problem.

[tim_jnv]

on floor section. doesn't look structurel to th x-member and it professionally inspected and the above work qutoed by whyperion is what is now expected .

[bmcecosse]

I wouldn't worry about it - as I said earlier it all looks pretty good - I've seen MUCH worse...

[tim_jnv]

well for the cost it has come back at for the welding and the fact it has to go away for painting anyway it justifys doing the sills and boxing with and just a new rear ladder on wood work.

[tim_jnv]

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58096

Current prject comming to an end.

[whyperion]

More is coming off before it all goes back together (I have got the dismantle front doors and remove varnish runs from the rear panels internals on my work list)

My (now deceased) father decided to paint a lot of metal bits gloss dulux white (including master cylinder, gearbox mounting brackets and other stuff, just does not look right )

At least the rear wood is managing to hold itself together.

We also had a garage internals swap around, The main metalwork vice , wooden bench , pipe vice , are all in the garage that has 240v power on tap, which should help matters. Really on the list is a nice house with integral power system twin+ garage, but its not easy with work moving around the country.[frame][/frame]

[whyperion]

Rear taken off, its a bit tricky to work out what is metalwork damage, missing or requiring work.

N/S B Post finishes short of where it should , as it appears boxing external section.

I understand from other posts that the plate under the rear of B post short thick wooden section is designed to keep water out of the timber, and that welding or otherwise fitting to just the car floor is correct.

Wheelarch formation has a mixture of filler / caulking around it, which we have now scrapered off, whats the correct stuff, if any , to use between the wood and the wheelarch (I have the Lindsay Porter book, but have difficulty reading it with my poor eyesight). We have new black rubber sealing strips that I bought and not used for the 4doors front wings !(somewhere in the garage where does it all go to.!)[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[whyperion]

Offside[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[whyperion]

Timber Framing, bit discoloured, But I think I will have to dismantle all to sand and do correctly, should last for 15 years , (I might sand back and the wax/ or varnish process complete.[frame][/frame] If we can re-assemble the rear, and get the doors and outer wings done, finish the engine (oil pump. balance the flywheel ) clean up engine bay and run in new wiring and get the brake lines all in before christmas then send the parts away for welding to be done by others - I think in our workspace it wont be practical - there is a bit around the suspension mounting rear and it appears inner sill boxing vertical isnt really attached to the floor at all. They can also re-assemble which should be a fairly fast task Biggest money spend is another 1098 clutch unit, would a 'fingers' clutch rather than a coild spring one be better ? If the external site can do the bonnet early and store that will help us for space while I search for all the oddments in dad's loft and mum's kitchen.