Hi team,
I've just had an embarassing few minutes on the Hard Shoulder of the A329(M). Having reached 70 to overtake a lorry, the engine started to lose power, and I ended up on the hard shoulder.
Engine would start, but not idle (or run at full throttle). After some 10 minutes, all went back to normal. I've replaced all the electric bits, though I'll do it again at the next service (not the coil!). So I think it must be fuel line (yes ther filters are ok), so I'm planning to remove the tank, fuel line, clean out, then replace.
The Haynes manual simple states drain, unscrew and remove - anyone done this ?
Colin
Fuel tank removal?
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Errr - I would first check the fuel pump is doing what it should - and are the contacts in good order. Then check to see if you have a vacuum in the tank - could be cap is blocked off and no air can get in. Removing the tank is a bu99er of a job - leave it to last resort.
Did you renew the condenser ? And it could be the coil overheating, so try another. If it was cold/wet day it may just have been carb icing - after 10 mins it all melts away and off you go again.
Did you renew the condenser ? And it could be the coil overheating, so try another. If it was cold/wet day it may just have been carb icing - after 10 mins it all melts away and off you go again.
Drain plug underneath tank. Unscrews with a spanner. If the tank is really old and the metals has worn thin, then then the mounting boss might rip out instrad of the plug unscrewing. Obviously take great care to drain petrol safely. Even when empty, the vapours in the tank will inger and could still explode - no sparks, naked flames etc.
Will also need to remove wooden boot floor, spare wheel etc. Disconnect filler pipe (simple) and fuel gauge (simple). Remove lots of small screws holding tank to floor (the fun bit, heads full of muck, rusted in, etc); and then just lift out the tank - the sealant around the rim might hold it down even after all screws out.
All quite straightforward, but are you sure that's what's needed? There should be a small breather hole in petrol cap to allow air in as fuel goes out. If it's blocked then a vacuum can build up, which the pump can't overcome. Reduces after you stop trying to take fuel for the engine. Also, blocked jet in carb, sticking needle valve, etc plus all the electrical bits again (what about that coil?)
Good luck.
Will also need to remove wooden boot floor, spare wheel etc. Disconnect filler pipe (simple) and fuel gauge (simple). Remove lots of small screws holding tank to floor (the fun bit, heads full of muck, rusted in, etc); and then just lift out the tank - the sealant around the rim might hold it down even after all screws out.
All quite straightforward, but are you sure that's what's needed? There should be a small breather hole in petrol cap to allow air in as fuel goes out. If it's blocked then a vacuum can build up, which the pump can't overcome. Reduces after you stop trying to take fuel for the engine. Also, blocked jet in carb, sticking needle valve, etc plus all the electrical bits again (what about that coil?)
Good luck.
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paulk
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I am currently in process of taking tank out of mine and can vouch for all previous items regarding rusted screws and gummed up heads. I would also add that if you think about drilling the screws out mine seem to be high tensile or something because they've blunted several decent drill bits.
If you do drain the tank watch out for the little washer on the drain plug that almost always falls into your petrol container.
Paulk
If you do drain the tank watch out for the little washer on the drain plug that almost always falls into your petrol container.
Paulk
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newagetraveller
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Thaks all,
to add a few more pointers - fuel pump is ticking away happily (replaced 3 years ago, as was the coil).
The float chamber was clear a few weeks ago, so I'm looking for small bits (or possibly water).
The condenser is changed as part of the service (usually I order a service kit which comes with plugs, points, condensor so I just change them - keeping the old ones as spares).
I did remove the filler cap in case there was a blockage, but this didn't make a difference.
I did also plan to service the carb - the engine is a recon unit fitted in Spetember 2004 - maybe I should start there?
And thanks for all the advice on screws - I thought that Haynes was a bit optimistic! I'll start using the penetrating oil now....
Colin
to add a few more pointers - fuel pump is ticking away happily (replaced 3 years ago, as was the coil).
The float chamber was clear a few weeks ago, so I'm looking for small bits (or possibly water).
The condenser is changed as part of the service (usually I order a service kit which comes with plugs, points, condensor so I just change them - keeping the old ones as spares).
I did remove the filler cap in case there was a blockage, but this didn't make a difference.
I did also plan to service the carb - the engine is a recon unit fitted in Spetember 2004 - maybe I should start there?
And thanks for all the advice on screws - I thought that Haynes was a bit optimistic! I'll start using the penetrating oil now....
Colin
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TerryG
- Minor Fan
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- Location: Leyton (East London)
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I had a similar problem a while ago, was caused by the carb overheating (i have an HIF38 rather than the standard HS2) In the end i had to do 2 things to cure it, fix a leak in the exhaust (where the pipe met the manifold) and fit a head shield for the carb.
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