Rear Wing to 3/4 panel repair.

[midget]

Having ploughed my way through most of this section, I have failed to find an answer to this query.
I am about to replace my n/s/r wing, but it looks like the 3/4 panel which it attaches to at the front(2 door) will also need attention. Have also searched the ESM/Bull Motif panel sites and cannot find any details of a repair section. It is a very tricky shape to fabricate and beyond my skill level. Is there one that I have missed?

[midget]

[frame][/frame]

Thought I'd make it a little more clear.

[jagnut66]

Hi,
I think these are what you are looking for - see links below.
Best wishes,
Mike.

http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=2810
http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=2811

[midget]

Yep, that's better RP133L. Did not see it earlier--sure it wasn't there.
Thanks anyway Mike.

[midget]

Guess I was being a tad optimistic about just ordering the above part!
This is the horror I discovered after removing the wing.
Question is, do I fabricate an 'arch' of plate to fill in between the ESM repair panel (http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/sho ... 9120b6202d) and the heavily rusted panel, which adjoins it? Secondly, how far do I chase all this filler back, as it seems to go on for some way yet? Must have been accident damage I reckon.[frame][/frame]

[midget]

Couldn't put 2 pictures on post?[frame][/frame]

[BLOWNMM]

G'day all
John - I see two clips on the rear of the leaf spring and only one on the front section. If there is only one on the front then the spring is fitted the wrong way around.
Cheers Bob

[ASL642]

You might need this as well

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 9120b6202d

[midget]

Oh dear, I am waiting for the panels to arrive to see if this area was included before ordering and fabricating a joining piece.
Repeat filler question please,how far to chase filler back, it is pretty thick, and extensive although well applied--it fooled me!
Can't work out if the wing mounting flange was part of main body panel or inner wing, as its so rotten all the way round.
Wish I'd never started it now, as it will mean a 'no show' at the national
Didn't fit the spring, or TBH know if it were possible to get them wrong.

[MrIan]

G'day all
John - I see two clips on the rear of the leaf spring and only one on the front section. If there is only one on the front then the spring is fitted the wrong way around.
Cheers Bob

Might have had replacement springs which have 4 clips !!! but yes if 3 clips 2 front 1 rear.

The dreaded filler !!!!! quite a lot of Mogs will be trotting around with loads of filler (and other modern cars too in fact), it depends how far you want to go and also what it looks like underneath. If it's deep pitted rust then you've got a BIG job on your hands, if it's just been used to straighten panels out and the metal is fine underneath in all honesty i'd replace it (if you want the car back on the road asap) till you have time to or want rid of it.
Really if repaired correctly it should only have a very thin skim if needed.

[ASL642]

The trouble with this is if you leave the filler and fit the new panels and the filler is covering rust it will break out again and you will have to do the job again. If it were me I think I'd want to do it right and know that the job's been done properly.

Of course it depends on your budget etc. How good your welding is, or do you know a local welder who could do it for you.

Note your location. Are you a member of the Oxon & Berks branch? Try contacting them to see if they know of a welder who can help.

In fact Matt Tomkins (their branch contact) is a poster on this site PM him? or email matt.tomkins40 at gmail.com

[midget]

Thanks for advice which chimed in with what I thought. The rot "only" extends to where it can be seen from latest photo below, and the amount of filler is mainly to re profile the existing home made panel repair I believe, so will wait for rest of repair sections to appear before deciding my next step. My welding was fairly competent, in the past when playing with MGBs, particularly considering the poor Telwin machine that I had then. Since heeding the advice from the superb Neil MG thread, in which he recommended the Portamig 185 machine, I hope to re kindle my past performance--we shall see as not even used it yet!
Yes, oxon branch member(just had a jaunt with them) but you are behind the times a little as Matt has moved on to pastures new. As to the spring question, BlownMM seems correct, as the other side is identical, and it too is 3 strap. Not that important is it? not going for concourse award for now but will change when I continue with mechanical upgrade later.
Another query to anyone who has used Mckalls rust converter as I do. What happen when you weld a section that has been treated? I have not welded a piece yet, and am curious as to the reaction.[frame][/frame]

Poor photo, sorry its dark now.

[MrIan]

As regarding the springs as far as i'm aware the axle pin is central so there's no alignment problem having the springs the wrong way round. The issue for 3 clips at a guess i'd say is when you accelerate the axle twists and winds up the spring and the twist pushes the rearward part of the leaves together and so tries to pull the front apart hence 2 clips front.
I doubt it's really much of a problem mind you unless you like racing cars from the lights !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just sort it later.

[midget]

Agreed, thanks for confirmation.
Written off bringing it to the Rally now( but still bringing the M/H), as I'm fitting the whole lot--inner arch,flange repair and 3/4 panel with new welder that I am getting to know---slowly.

[midget]

Oh gawd, add to that list rear outer sill panel now.
As I am fitting the whole inner wing, do I really need to replace the transit tie-down bracket, or is this considered essential for bracing/ structural strength around the spring mount? Or could I cheat, and cut around it ?
The area around it is sound, and if it were not for the extreme local rot of the flange at rear, I could have just used a front repair section.
I take it that "plug welds" are used to replicate the factory spot welds along chassis etc for the new inner wing?
! week to go!

[midget]

Can anyone offer an opinion on weather it is necessary to re-fit the shipping bracket please.
Not concerned about originality, just structural integrity.
Edited to say that I have removed it for fitting of inner wing panel,and now undecided on re fitting.?

[ManyMinors]

I've never bothered fitting them on my cars once repairs have been carried out in that area. They just seem to create a rust trap to me.

[midget]

That's what I thought, thanks. What about panel suppliers transit covering? Is this a sort of weld thru primer, or essential to remove it for welding/painting?

[ASL642]

Personally I would remove it. On most new panels it's not well sprayed so will not provide a good base for paint.

[taupe]

Can anyone offer an opinion on weather it is necessary to re-fit the shipping bracket please.
Not concerned about originality, just structural integrity.

As far as structural integrity is concerned I personally think that the shipping bracket plate is essential as the chassis is otherwise only 1mm thick at this mounting point (the bracket adds a further 2mm of thickness)...the hole on the end can be trimmed off if you are worried about a rust trap or Ive seen it hammered flat to the inner wing and seam welded.

A 2mm thick square plate with a hole in for the rear shackle could be substituted for the shipping bracket as long as it ties the two parts of the chassis rail together.

Taupe