Removing engine, do I have to drain the oil?

[David W.]

check the bearings on your spares, and see if you can figure out what Moss means about the 13, 21, and 24 mm depth.

[GeordieDave]

check the bearings on your spares, and see if you can figure out what Moss means about the 13, 21, and 24 mm depth.

Indeed, I'll see what I can figure out. I don't think it relates to the thickness of the carbon because my manual says if there is lessthan 1/16th inch carbon left then replace the bearing. This is 1.5mm in new money, which isn't a lot if a new bearing is at least 13mm carbon, you'd think anything less than 3 or 4mm would be worth replacing?

[welshrat]

I was/will post a new topic but this seems to be related to my question, does anyone have the spec on what clutch for what motor, for me in particular, diameter of clutch plate for an early 1275 midget.

[Roni]

I measured one up, for a 1098.
Total carbon thickness = 14.4mm
Exposed carbon = 8.3mm
From front face of carbon to pivot centre = 24mm

[sirrom]

My clutch pedal is very heavy after I fitted a reco pressure plate and new clutch. Also fitted another thrust bearing - the best one of the spares I had. I have a 948 engine and smooth casing g/box. Wondering whether I could have fitted a 1098 thrust bearing, but if I recall the 1098 has thicker axis points than the 948 and wouldnt have fitted the thicker diameter (1098) one beacuse it wouldnt have sat properly in the fork.
After getting it going I have always just put it down to the pressure plate.

Can someone confirm what the physical differences between the 948 and 1098 thrust bearings.

thanks

[bmcecosse]

As long as you can get a good 1" free play - it doesn't matter what you have in there - and won't have the slightest effect on 'heavieness'.

[GeordieDave]

I managed to get the engine out and found that the fork was from a 1098 but the bearing was different. Although it was the same diameter as the 1098 bearing, it was 1cm shallower (?). I've swapped forks/bearings but the only way to see if its a fix is to put the engine back in, which will have to wait until I've tidied the engine bay and wiring horrors.

It looks like the fork was running out of travel as the rubber gaiter was crushed and split.

I've attached a picture, but sometimes they don't upload. The bearing on the right is the 1098, the one on the left was the one that was in the car. If this swap doesn't cure it, I'll go for a new clutch.

[bmcecosse]

It will be fine - it was an 'end of travel' problem.

[GeordieDave]

The bearing that was in the car is on the left. The 1098 bearing is on the right of the picture.[frame][/frame]

[GeordieDave]

An old post, I know, but I forgot to follow up on why the clutch was so heavy. This pressure plate with extra springs might explain it. Was my car doing hill climbs or drag races in its youth??

[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

What do you mean 'extra springs'?

[philthehill]

The Minor 803cc/948cc clutch normally has only 6 pressure springs and the pressure plate illustrated has 9.
The subject of 9 pressure springs has been discussed before.

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... te#p468067

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 9290_17277[/img][/frame]

[GeordieDave]

has been discussed before.

That was me! I forgot I'd already mentioned this

[IslipMinor]

The 9-spring 6.25" pressure plate was available from AP Racing 'in the day' - Borg & Beck part number 50333 from the Mk1 Sprite Special Tuning Manual. We had one on the original modified 948 engine and I don't remember it being particularly heavy - it was my wife's daily drive at the time.

The Mk1 Spitfire also had a 9-spring 6.25" clutch, but these days the likes of Rimmer Bros show a picture of the correct 9-spring pressure plate, but the words say that a 6-spring will be supplied with stronger springs - Mmm!!

There is a US supplier offering 9-spring cover plates for $440!

[GeordieDave]

There is a US supplier offering 9-spring cover plates for $440!

Off to ebay it goes then! $$$