things that go bump in the night

[surfergirl]

Hi folks,
Im just rebuilding the front wheel arch/flitch on the moggy van and need to work out the bump stop area. The van has none so have got some from GS Jones, only thing is which way does the cone shaped rubber go? They are handed so when looked at the cone points right or left when mounted on its plate.
If anyone has a photo they could put up that would be great.
Cheers

[panky]

You may find the old base plate is still there which might give you a clue.

[philthehill]

The front suspension top bump rubbers are handed:-

Pt No: AAA1414 L/H
Pt No: AAA1413 R/H

They may be marked on the top R/H & L/H and TOP (original BMC ones are marked R/H or L/H and TOP)

The bump stops will only fit one way and which allows the cone to contact the top of the top trunnion when the suspension is compressed.

If the cone is fitted to the wrong side the cone points away from the trunnion and will not contact the top of the top trunnion when the suspension is compressed.

[surfergirl]

Thanks for the replies,
The holes have long gone and an old patch welded over the area, so Im looking for a pic if poss. Im guessing so long as the rubber cone contacts the top of the trunnion on the bumps, job done?[frame][/frame]
This is the orrible mess Im working through at the mo.I took the wing off to fit a new hinge pillar panel (which went on quite quick) looks like it needs flitch and wheel arch, but cant face that at the mo, so Im gonna weld in new metal and wait until autumn.[frame][/frame]

[philthehill]

Below is the position of the rear 1/4" UNF mounting nut and bolt which is drilled central in the flange of the reinforcing web.
Use that hole to position the other hole in the centre of the flange on the outside/top of the inner wing.
From your picture above do you have the flange for the outer/front bolt?[frame][/frame]

[surfergirl]

Fantastic, thanks thats just what I needed, I can measure up tomorrow and work it all out.
No the flange on the wing/flitch has gone, so Im gonna have to weld one in.

[philthehill]

Outer flange diagram:-[frame][/frame]

[surfergirl]

Ah, so looking at the sketch the bump rubber bolts across the inner wing at an angle.

[philthehill]

Correct
The mounting plate of the bump stop rubber fits at an angle across the underside of the inner wing.
Rear mounting bolt inside the wing, front mounting bolt outside the wing.
The loading on the bump stop is therefore shared between the vertical part of the Flitch, the wheel arch and the reinforcing plate.

[surfergirl]

Thanks for your help, I will post a pic when its done!

[philthehill]

Inner mounting hole.
[frame][/frame]
Outer mounting hole.
[frame][/frame]

[surfergirl]

Fantastic, are they pics from a resto. it all looks very clean?

[bmcecosse]

I assume you are going to weld these plates on properly......

[philthehill]

No not a restoration - as a track car it is kept like that all the time.
I had removed the O/S bump stop to cut out and weld in a piece of metal in the flitch above the bump stop. A couple of pin holes had appeared around the wing securing captive nut (which are not used) so decided to get rid of the pin holes and tidy up the flitch panel.[frame][/frame]

[surfergirl]

Yes there will be more weld, I tack the panels in with rivets and tack welds so that I can see that all fits well and in this case the door closes!
This will open a can of worms but Ive been told that if the original panels were spot welded then seam welding is not needed, whereas patches do need to be seam welded.

[bmcecosse]

Yes - you can replicate spot welds. But if you are putting a patch in a panel - the weld must be continuous.