Plucking up the courage

[culp]

I am new to bodywork restoration. I can weld, but my expertise only goes as far as setting up the welder and welding together 2 nice clean pieces of metal on a workbench. That much I'm confident in.

I have a 1970 Traveller. bodywork jobs needed are

1 Front wing - completely knackered, lots of filler not fitted properly.
inner wings on both sides - a mess, lots of patches but no actual holes
drivers side floor - replaced with a flat sheet of metal
drivers side foot well around the pedals - small holes you can see daylight through
drivers side sill - I haven't had the courage to take this to bits but its a complete mess, no Idea whats been done but the outer sill finisher doesn't line up with the door. If I look underneath I can't make out under all the black goo which panel is which.
Cross member - coming unlaminated. The bit were the torsion bar fits in has been plated over so I can't adjust them.

Where to start?[frame][/frame]

[The vast minority]

Start at the easiest place first, as this gives you a confidence boost when completed. This place is best defined by your own examination but probably the work on the inner wings.

Importantly, take your time, it gets done when it gets done, never try and do too much as long as you have time to play with.

Looks like you have a nice bright garage with space to work so party on dude!

Al

[kennatt]

sounds like a majour rebuild,before you do anything,cutting out etc. Take the doors off and weld strong,braces across sound points on the A,B and if four door,C posts.As low down as rust will allow .This is essential to stop the frame from distorting before cutting out of the floor sills chassis section.Good luck.

[mogbob]

Continue the welding practice ..off the car but on some rusty metal this time.It will spit back at you and the quality of the weld will be rubbish BUT when you experience the sound on your car... you will recognise it.It won't be like the sizzling bacon
sound you should hear.

Cutting out all the rusty metal and cleaning up, back to shinny metal, non greasy / oily surface will give you a head start.
Take measurements before you start, make cardboard models of sections required if a patch will do.Cereal packets are great for this.
Remove as little as possible at a time , sufficient to get something decent to weld to.If you cut it all out and clean up : -
first of all you will have lost reference points ( measurements ).
second the clean metal will start going rusty again.

Think about the order, do a small section and then move on.On longer straight edges you will get distortion unless you clamp down well with welding clamps/ mole wrenches ... and weld short bursts /lines 1" / 25 mm at a time.Move about the line allowing the first weld to cool.If you can get a small bar of brass to put behind the weld, it will impove the quality.The brass will act as a heat sink and not stick / get welded.

If you've not got one, a power file and several abrasive bands will work wonders on rusty metal.A gentle touch will mean you don't snap the bands in the first 5 seconds.
Don't forget the routine safety, protective gear,gloves,welding apron, mask.Fire extinguisher and water to hand ( Use with discretion ).Tell someone you are welding and get them to check you are OK, every now and then.Battery / alternator disconnected and nothing behind the panels you're welding on that might catch fire ( i.e wires,insulation,waxoyl,underseal etc ).
Enjoy.. getting it right is very satisfying.
Bob
P.S don't forget to cover window glass, paintwork and the interior.. to protect against welding splatter or sparks from the angle grinder.Stop every few minutes to make sure the protection hasn't caught fire with a stray spark or molten metal.

[culp]

Thanks everyone for the help