help morris gold engine ID

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craig12
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by craig12 »

why ? looks like a common conversion , I think someone is making them or the kit to alter
Trickydicky
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by Trickydicky »

I don't think with an 803cc engine you need to worry about stopping quickly, :D If the the brakes are well maintained you will have no problems. My 948cc stops perfectly well on the 7" brakes
Richard

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craig12
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by craig12 »

will try them soon I hope , the fact that the car is slow has no effect on the weight/mass traveling at say 30mph , its the stopping distance which im interested in when one of the idiots round here , Birmingham , pulls out of the local Mcshit with out looking whilst trying to balance his milk shake on the dash and light his joint at the same time , I ride a bike and this does happen
bmcecosse
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by bmcecosse »

At 30 mph the drums will easily stop the car! Discs will be NO better - where they ARE better is in repeated high speed stops - something completely unknown with 803 engine power....... :roll: :lol: :wink:
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panky
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by panky »

Not long after I got Ted the Traveller I had course to slam on when a car pulled out on me :-? The front brakes (drums) locked as I stamped on the pedal, on a dry road, so I reckon they are as good as you can get for standard Minor brakes, better brakes will just make the wheels lock up sooner. If you need more stopping power the first thing to do is get more rubber on the road by fitting wider wheels and tyres - I keep looking for a set off a van before I consider doing a braking system upgrade.
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bmcecosse
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by bmcecosse »

Yes indeed - rubber/road contact is very much the limiting factor on MY Trav!
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rayofleamington
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by rayofleamington »

, the car was never on the road (so I am told) since this engine was fitted but looks to have a leaking core plug
Is the core plug pushed out (if so - then likely to have stood with water & no antifreeze). Fitting a new one is often all you need to do.
If it's corroded through, then I'd be highly inclined to do a good flush of the block, as it's been rusting away in the waterjacket.

As for the gold paint - it was merely a (good) marketing exercise. It denoted a fully rebuilt "from factory" engine. However as it's been rebuilt, then there's less wear allowance left! People were (and still are) in awe of the "gold"ness, but there's no more power / durability etc..
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
craig12
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by craig12 »

there is a spare head also gold ? maybe he just bought a can for a diy shop , will take a better look when the engines out , also in the spares is a 4.55 dif , it still has the standard (square sump rear dif) is it worth changing , may do over winter
alexandermclaren
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by alexandermclaren »

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bmcecosse
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Re: help morris gold engine ID

Post by bmcecosse »

Nice trailer...... :)
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