Engine steady bar

[terry754]

I am overhauling the engine steady bar,my question is with regard to the bracket on the cylinder head.This bracket when fitted should it be vertical when fitted or hanging down.Mine shows as vertical which makes the rod at an angle.Haynes shows as hanging down which makes the rod more level.Which is right.Thanks.

[minor65]

Here's the way it should be (not my car pictured)[frame][/frame]

[terry754]

Thankyou Minor65.

[bmcecosse]

Yes - 'hanging down' as above - BUT - it goes on top of the cylinder head nut - that stud is longer than the others - and is then secured with a washer and nut.

[terry754]

I'm still not convinced that the bracket hangs down.Looking on Ebay photos of minors for sale and zooming in, half brackets are down the other half up.Yes the head stud is longer but it won't take the bracket and another nut.What's it to be!!!!

[Declan_Burns]

It is shown in the Workshop Manual Fig AA29 dotted (as in hanging down) on page AA28.
Regards
Declan

[tysonn]

I can't see why when you ask a question and have it answered by very very experienced people who have been doing this for years you then question their wisdom?If you already are convinced of the way it goes just do it your way.

[katy]

Mine shows as vertical which makes the rod at an angle.Haynes shows as hanging down which makes the rod more level.Which is right

The rod should be more or less level, so whichever way the bracket is fitted to get the rod level on your car is the correct way.

[bmcecosse]

And fitted correctly on top of the head nut - it will be pretty much horizontal...

[philthehill]

To alleviate any argument - this is what it says in the BMC wksp manual - copy of Fig AA29 and Section AA37 below.
But to throw the cat amongst the pigeons it does not say fit a nut first to the longer stud just that ' The engine steady anchor bracket is secured below the right-hand (looking forward from the driving seat (my words)) rear cylinder head stud nut after fitting the lengthened stud provided'.
Now that may mean one thing to another and something quite different to another.
Personally I have never found an extra nut under the steady bracket and have always fitted the assy (in this order) - the long stud, the bracket (downwards), the washer and finally the cylinder head nut. The bracket has always remained level provided the engine and gearbox mounts are serviceable and not old and deformed.[frame][/frame]

[mike.perry]

Thats the trouble with using Austin engines, Morris never had a problem with side valve engines even when converted to OHV.

[terry754]

Thanks everyone,will be mounted downwards as being the most straight.

[MikeNash]

Just keeping all this going for longer than it should, neither of my blocks ever have had long studs at the rear right position, and the best position for the cylinder attachment for the head steady on my engine is upright, thus[frame][/frame]

I believe this layout is probably original (this 1963 Trav's been this way for at least the last 49 years) and so ". . .when you ask a question and have it answered by very, very experienced people who have been doing this for years . . ." they're most likely right - but not always!

That's just Morris Minors for you. Regards, MikeN.

[philthehill]

Mike
Whilst it may have been that way for 49 years it does not make it right.
In your photo above the angle of the rod against the bracket under the battery tray does not look right and is that lock nut loose?
If you project a line at 90degrees to the battery tray bracket it meets the cylinder head level with the under side of the cylinder head bracket. Turn that bracket through 180 degrees and the centre of the bracket is correct, That is why there is a up lift before the bracket turns downwards.
If you cannot fit it downwards as per the wksp manual and are unable to adjust the bracket under the battery tray to get the rod level it may be as my post above alludes to in that the engine /gearbox mounts may be suspect.

[LUR759H]

I think mine was the same as in the diagram, on my 1098 trav, I expected a longer stud on the end but no they are the same length...
I agree, What is the point in asking for advice from those who know what they are talking about if you dont listen... for goodness sake there is a diagram from the manual that someone has taken time to scan to try and help you.... take heed!!! otherwise you will most likely end-up with more than copper pipe soldered into your engine bay!!!

Alan

[MikeNash]

Hmmm,
Well Phil, I've had a good look at mine and while I'm not completely clear on your exposition I wonder if your not right about engine/g'box mounts for my engine is also a bit further forward than others too. I recently renewed all the mounts for the old ones were about 50 years old because they were quite decayed. But at present, my steady arrangement lines up best in its current situation. I hope to see you in the near future so perhaps we might do a comparison. The only other thought is that this motor originally had a mechanical fuel pump so I assume it was once an Austen engine - but they don't have different dimensions, do they?

Finally, you were right about the lock nut needing tightening. Thanks! MikeN.

And just for Alan; do you think I should polish the copper pipe?