Weld dressing

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Mark Wilson
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Weld dressing

Post by Mark Wilson »

No - not the Derbyshire tradition with flowers, making welds look pretty. :)

What's the accepted practice - obviously on visible panels some application of bodyfiller will be essential, but I've got some areas which will be completely or almost invisible, eg within the flitch panel and repairs to the inner wheel arches. I'm tempted to smooth these out with grinding and filler, not for appearance but to minimise the places moisture can lodge. Is this over the top? And is it ok to rely on body filler to seal pinholes in butt welds?

Mark
bmcecosse
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Re: Weld dressing

Post by bmcecosse »

There shouldn't BE any pin holes in your butts..... Don't waste 'filler' on them - seam sealer if you must, after grinding flat..
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les
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Re: Weld dressing

Post by les »

Don't fall for the 'out of sight out of mind' school of thought, what that means is 'I can't be bothered' as above post smooth out and seal with seam sealer, pin holes aren't good though, maybe your welder settings are too low. I've found a black and decker powerfile great for smoothing welds.

M25VAN
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Re: Weld dressing

Post by M25VAN »

+1 for the powerfile, I was surprised how well it grinds down metal. Great for cleaning metal prior to welding as well.
Mark Wilson
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Re: Weld dressing

Post by Mark Wilson »

You're hard taskmasters you lot! Even Neil MG admits to sealing the odd pinhole with JB Weld. I understood that it was preferable to leave some weld proud where appearance didn't matter, not as an out of sight out of mind attitude but to avoid weakening the joint. With this in mind I was asking if others would then go as far as using filler over the raised joint to make the surface smooth to avoid moisture traps.

I agree about Powerfiles. Mine seized up last week and although the supplier replaced it very quickly it was like being without my right hand.

Mark
les
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Re: Weld dressing

Post by les »

Well we all have different ideas of what's acceptable and right but I consider any weld thicker than the metal it's repairing is adding nothing to the strength but obviously not ground back to the parent metal, so nothing lost by making it neat and then applying an even film of Seam sealer. You would need a to put the sealer on too thick if you were trying to cover rough welds, as opposed to smooth. :D

chickenjohn
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Re: Weld dressing

Post by chickenjohn »

If you get a small pin hole or gap in your welding the best way to fill it is with more weld! Just a spot of weld.

To dress welds down I use a grinder with an abrasive flap wheel, for tight spots a small air belt sander or die grinder with a carbide burr.

Then prime the welded area and seam seal before the top coats.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
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Neil MG
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Re: Weld dressing

Post by Neil MG »

Ok, for my pennies worth; I ground down the welds with a flap wheel, often this can expose pin holes that would otherwise go undetected. Whilst in a perfect world (or a more professional weld) there should not be any pinholes, I found that after shotblasting they were quite numerous. I include those voids that do not penetrate right through the steel in that category too. It is not always possible to see clearly.

I would advise against using body filler directly on any welds that may contain pinholes as it is porous and eventually will allow rust to develop. I used JB weld to be sure on any exposed welds that could not be sealed with seam sealer. I don't see any reason to use body filler on anything except the exterior paintwork. I found that the stone chip was enough to give an acceptable finish to "hidden" areas, for instance on both sides of the floorpan. Where the welds are only accessible from one side, thorough waxing inside of the box sections should be enough to protect the from behind.

For welds like the door skin where there is a but weld that is directly under finished paint I was very careful to try and avoid or repair any pinholes. On the underbody structure there were voids in some of the plug welds and these were filled with JB weld prior to seam sealer and stone chip.

I hope that together with the pictures on my restoration thread this is of some use.

For interest I have just done the first 500 mile service on the traveller and it spent a rainy day today at the biggest local classic car show (over 700 cars?) here in Cumbria. It was on our branch stand and attracted a good deal of interest from visitors :D
1956 Morris Minor Series II
1959 MGA 1600 Roadster
1966 Jaguar Mk2 3.8 MOD
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