Corroded sill step - what do you reckon?

[Mark Wilson]

Currently preparing the lh side of my car for replacement of floor extensions and boxing plate, but have found that towards the rear the sill step bottom flange isn't too clever. I don't want tp replace the whole sill step, but would seem to have the choice of welding in a new angle to replicate the flange, or simply removing the affected area and relying on the angle upstand on the replacement floor pan I'll be fitting. Its a Hadrian panel and seems to have a reasonably solid 18mm upstand before the flimsier upper upstand. Advice please.


Mark[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[taupe]

Thats right by the seatbelt mount so any excess corrosion is an automatic MOT fail..best cut out all the rot.

Taupe

[Mark Wilson]

Thanks Taupe, good point about the seat belt mounting. I wasn't proposing to leave any corroded metal, just wondered whether I needed to form a new bottom flange as well as the new floor pan, but on reflection I will do, as otherwise the floor extension won't be welded to a continuous flange.

This sketch shows how I intend to weld the sill to the floor pan and floor extension, the floor extension going on first and being trimmed flush with the sill step flange. (For simplicity I've missed off the repair to the sill step, and the strengthener). Does this look right?

Mark[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

That spring mount looks very far from satisfactory - you need to cut back and include new metal for the spring mount in your work.

[rayofleamington]

Some of it is personal preference, and from your sketch it is clear you are aiming at a solid sill.

Personally I dislike the floor and step combo panels as they are sometimes used to hide a rotten step panel without considering how to recreate the original strength of the sill.

What I usually do is try to match closer to the original layout - this involves repairing the inner step bottom edge (provided it only needs a few small repairs). Then use a plug weld to join all 3 sections and a fillet to finish off the floor extension joint to the floor.
This joins the inner step in a way that matches the original spot welds and gives a solid & robust connection of the floor extension panel.

My sketches are a bit imperfect (especially as the floor extension changes profile along its length) but hopefully gives the message.[frame][/frame]

[Mark Wilson]

Roy - absolutely right, and you should see the rh front hanger! I'm working towards the back and the spring hangers will be done once I've strengthened the sill and floors and got it on its side. I'll do the bottom of the rear seat section that the front spring hanger is rivetted and welded to before I fit the floors.

Ray, thanks. You are more purist than I am, I want to retain the short upstand on the replacement floor pan (not the "hide the holes" thin plate above it), and plug the floor to the side as well as the bottom flange of the sill step. Apart from the bits I'll be repairing this week the flange is ok - but only ok, and I prefer the look of the vertical metal!

BTW since you're all looking very closely you'll have noticed from the vertical weld at the rear that the sill has been replaced previously by parties unknown. Pity that corrosion proofing wasn't thought to be necessary....

Mark