HELP i need some one ...Help...its hurting my head

[flying]

right now i got issues with my sisters moggy.....last time she drove it,it decided to give up the ghost and was playing silly buggers and wouldn't start.......she already got a garage to look at before asking me and they couldn't fix it.....then i tried and found few problems with compression and no spark.....had previous issue with breaker contacts before....nothing.....decided to overhaul the whole lot....start from fresh....so now its been stripped new big/small bearings,rebore ,pistons,head converted,oil pressure switch etc...basically every inner items got replaced ....new fuel pump,..new vac pipe,new battery ,dizzy overhauled,new dizzy cap,rotor arm,new plugs,new ht leads...contacts and condenser now gone and replaced for the correct electronic ignition module,carb cleaned

and its still refusing to start ....i have tried everything i can think of and had no luck.......bit of puff from carb when turning over....checked im not 180 degrees out on dizzy....fine (check)....correct firing order 1342 (check)...new fuel (check)....getting spark (check)...got compression (check)....fuel being pumped into carb (check).

help i need suggestions

[bmcecosse]

Pour some petrol down the carb - does it start now?? Valve gaps set correctly? Compressions good? And yes - it's 1342 ANTICLOCK wise round the dizzy cap!

[flying]

tried the petrol down carb...didnt work....valve gaps correct

[chesney]

Is it firing at all?
Good engine earth? Wiring correct? Starter motor working ok? Mixture OK?

[Dean]

I have suspicions the spark possibly isn't happening at the time it should. Do you have a long screwdriver or something you can put down the spark plug hole to tell you when a piston is at the top? I'm thinking if you bring a piston to the top and then follow that lead and look where the rotor arm is. Then follow the sequence 1342 anti clockwise with the rotor arm.

[flying]

its firing at all the plugs in the right order.....i checked and doubled checked.....and my friend did the same....so it shouldn't be wrong..........found before hand that the original ht leads screw connectors had broken internally...tested on the meter and they were x-rayed at work to make sure they were broken ...brought new ht leads and fitted correctly

[chesney]

It has to be something simple - carb piston not stuck? Not likely to be a tooth out on the timing gear is it (suppose that's difficult to check now). Worrying it's not firing at all..

[Dean]

It must be the fuel not getting through to the bores. Was the head rebuilt? There isn't any possibility something is blocking the fuel inlets in the head?

[flying]

stripped the carb today and cleaned up.....i know its got me thinking...what could it be.....one thing im thinking atm is that i dont feel alot of air suction from the dizzy vac pipe.....on my mini/escort you can hear and feel the pressure from the vac pipe when disconnected.....but dont feel any on the moggy.....so im wandering whats sucks the fuel through the su carb if no air suction from the dizzy pipe..........its a su auc 6070b carb if any help

[flying]

yes the head was rebuilt

[daveyl]

I can only suggest that you move all the dissy leads forward one space and then if still it wont start, try them all back one space from where they are at the mo. I have found this to work on occasion.

[chesney]

Double check that the gaskets on the manifold and the carb are working - ie the nuts are tight. Sounds 'Minor', but just that small seep can make a huge difference to running performance. It must be something to do with timing - don't lecky ignitions need to be more advanced than the instructions state? Does it kick back against the starter?

[maxwoods]

Does the choke work?
Is there a needle in the carb
If you have fuel, compression and a good spark at the plugs, it must be a timing or mixture issue.
Get number one cylinder to TDC and then check to see where the rotor cap is pointing. If it is not pointing to number one plug lead, then either rotate the dissy, or move the leads around until it is.
Once you have established the timing, adjust the mixture - scew the jet nut up all the way and then back down 2 complete turns.

pouring a little petrol down the carb, should give you a good chance of the engine firing if the ignition/timing is vaguely correct

[bmcecosse]

You keep assuring us that everything is correct - clearly it is not. You're not using resistive HT leads AND resistive plugs ?? I've known this (on a mates engine) to non start. Double check the timing - get #1 to TDC with the rockers free (so it's definitely on the firing stroke) and then check the rotor arm is pointing to the lead running to # 1 plug. Let's see compression readings. And advance the ignition till it kicks against the starter - then retard it slightly. At least you then know it is approx correct - near enough to start!

[MarkyB]

Any chance she put diesel in it?

[kennatt]

the dizzy pipe has nothing to do with pulling fuel throuigh the carb it's there to advance and retard the ignition once the engine is running. What about valve clearances,been reset after rebuild. They sometime do take a bit of starting after rebuild try easy start into carb,see if it fire up then.

[smithskids]

Easy start isn't a good idea, if it doesn't start it washes off all the oil from around the bores and you end up with a siezed engine if you leave it for any legnth of time. Is it turning fast enough?

[MarkyB]

The idea that easy start will wash the oil off the cylinder walls is pretty theoretical, if you can't get some kind of life out of the engine using it there is something very wrong.

[chesney]

Can't make much difference on a rebuilt engine surely!

[IslipMinor]

Working on the presumption that it has not started since the engine rebuild? What electronic module are you using and is it wired up the right way round - i.e. +ve or -ve earth? If it has been wired wrongly, even for a very short time they can 'fry' very easily.

Lots of things have been changed, so I would go right back to the basics and start from there:

Cam timing - double check it.

Valve clearances

Plugs cleaned and gapped

Distributor timing
- turn the engine to TDC with No.1 cylinder on firing stroke (both valves closed) and make sure that the rotor arm is pointing to the No. 1 lead position - rotate the distributor until it does.
- plug leads in correct order in the distributor cap - 1342 ANTI-clockwise looking at the cap from the outside
- how are you setting the distributor timing? The rotational position with an electronic module fitted can be quite a bit different to when it had points. One rough way is to still have the engine on TDC, with No. 1 firing, fit the cap and at least the No.1 HT lead, take out the plug and connect the HT lead to it and lay it on the engine so that it connects with the block or head. Turn on the ignition and rotate the distributor anti-clockwise at least 30°, then slowly rotate it clockwise (advancing the ignition), so that is passes the position when it 'fires' - the plug should spark at some point during the clockwise rotation. If it doesn't then either something is wrong with the previous settings or the electronic module is not working.
- assming you now have a spark, rotate the distributor until it sparks on No. 1 and lock the distributor clamp ring. Connect all the HT leads, turn on, check for fuel, pull choke out fully and it should start!! The timing and mixture will need to be finalised, but it will start with the rough ignition timing and full choke from cold.