Wheel Alignment

[Andy Rose]

Hi, my van's new radial tyres seem to be suffering from poor wheel alignment. The leading edge of the outside tread is raised up.. Can I ask if someone can let me know what the recommended toe in is please. I have the van booked in for an alignment, but the people don't have the data for a Morris Minor !! I can't understand why

[Matt]

Everywhere I go still carrie the info...

But a quick search reveals for the Minor it is officially 3/32" (2.4mm) toe in

[bmcecosse]

Most places now will want to work in 'degrees' - search me...... It's very easy to make a simple track gauge and DIY the tracking. Important to also check that the two track rod ends are screwed on the track rods by an equal amount. Also inspect the tie-rod front mount bushes to make sure they are not rotted/loose.

[IslipMinor]

Andy,

Before checking the tracking, you should make sure that the steering is basically 'centred'. To do this set the wheel in the 'straight ahead' position (while stationary!) and then count the turns to the left full lock and right full lock. Are they the same? If not remove the wheel and realign it on the spline so the turns left and right are the same.

Then find a straight piece of road, with minimal camber, and drive in a straight line, noting the position of the steering wheel. If it is truly 'straight ahead' you are ready to check the alignment, with any adjustments made equally to each track rod. Do not allow the garage to simply adjust one side. The other benefit of centering the steering is that it avoids the possibility that one track rod end is screwed so far out that it has too few threads engaged on the track rod and fails.

If the wheel is not straight ahead, and you want to get the wheel pointing in the right direction, it gets a bit more complicated! There are 4 scenarios, but it may need more than one adjustment:

Steering wheel points to the left AND the alignment has too much 'toe-in' - adjust the LH track rod end (TRE) to shorten the LH track rod length.

Steering wheel points to the left AND the alignment has too much 'toe-out' - adjust the RH track rod end (TRE) to shorten the RH track rod length.

Steering wheel points to the right AND the alignment has too much 'toe-in' - adjust the RH track rod end (TRE) to shorten the RH track rod length.

Steering wheel points to the right AND the alignment has too much 'toe-out' - adjust the LH track rod end (TRE) to shorten the LH track rod length.

You now have the alignment correct, but the steering wheel may not have moved enough, or even too much. Identify which way the steering wheel now points and if you need to correct this, very carefully undo each TRE locknut (both sides have RH threads) and then:

If the wheel points to the left, shorten the LH track rod and lengthen the RH by the same amount, e.g. 1/4 turn each side, but in opposite directions.

If the wheel points to the right, shorten the RH track rod and lengthen the LH by the same amount, e.g. 1/4 turn each side, but in opposite directions.

When all the adjustments have been done, double check the TRE lock nuts are both tight!

Looking at this on the 'posted' screen, it is rather long, so hopefully the steering wheel is nice and straight and a simple tracking adjustment is all that is needed. If not then ....!!!!

[Andy Rose]

Thanks very much Richard, brilliant I can see that I am in one of the first two scenarios and now can make sure the alighner does the correct adjustment. Thanks also to Matt, 2.4 mm it shall be and Roy I will make sure all is well with the steering joints as you suggest..this is a fabulous club

[stag36587]

Just by way of comparison, how may threads do most people have showing at the track rod ends?

[Alex'n'Ane]

What kind of 'alignment' place is this? All of the good ones, with excellent new equipment should definitely have morris minors in the database. Oddly they are meant to have something like 1 deg of POSITIVE camber.. Also they should check the camber when aligning it, and you can always get camber shims

[bmcecosse]

I would centre the TREs on the TRs BEFORE considering moving the steering wheel on the splines....... Which I can't do anyway since I don't have the correct socket - although there is another way....... As for camber - the original spec was for 0 to +1 camber.. The handling on radials is much improved with -1 camber which is well worth doing.

[Andy Rose]

Hi all, just to report job done. The old girl had 13.8mm toe in!! No wonder the tyres were starting to feather up. Now set to 2.4mm thanks to all who helped

[bmcecosse]

Crikey.......no wonder there was wear showing.