Front suspension rebuild: step-by-step

[54woody]

I'm sure this must've come up before. Is there a good on-line step-by-step guide to rebuilding the front suspension? With photos would be even better. I have a copy of the workshop manual and have read through the suspension section but I find it a bit confusing. If I remember, it suggests removal of the torsion bars and I'm curious if that's really needed. I suspect that in the years since the workshop manual was written, a simpler procedure may well have been worked out.

[Fingolfin]

It depends wholly on what exactly you mean by "rebuild". If you want to inspect, clean, and repaint the torsion bars, then they must come off. The front of the suspension can be removed without removing the torsion bars, but since one needs to loosen the bars to do so, one may as well remove them and include them in the servicing procedure.

I don't know about a full guide, but I do have a tip: if you do remove the bars, reassemble the rear lever arms back onto them with ample grease; this allows far easier resetting of the ride height when necessary.

[bmcecosse]

The Official Manual details it all well enough - just don't rely on Haynes..... No need to remove the T bars - in fact I strongly recommend NOT disturbing the rear mounting of the T bar. But if you do - be sure to put them back on the same side.

[54woody]

Sorry, should've been a bit clearer. Front end is quite noisy going over bumps and such. Sometimes get a metalic clunk from left side on bigger bumps. I'm tearing it down far enough to replace worn bushings and will also replace trunions, but only if necessary.

Here's what I started with.
[frame][/frame]
[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[54woody]

I've removed the tie bar, the front suspension arm, and the pin thorugh the lower trunion. Released the tension from the torsion bar. The cause of the metalic clunk on larger bumps became obvious once the front suspension arm was removed. The bushings on the eye bolt are virtually non-existant.

[frame][/frame]

[54woody]

So my current question is this...Is is possible to replace the eye bolt bushings (ie. get to the other side of the eye bolt) without removing the torsion bar?

[Tom and Maria]

Looks like job done, or almost.

You will need to knock the Rear half of the wishbone backwards about 3/4'' to get at the rear nut on the spindle. Don't knock the wishbone off the torsion bar splines. With it moved backwards the second nut on the spindle is easy to see. It's number 52 on this diagram:

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=minor+ ... 8fxXgoz0jM:

Check for wear in the trunnions and then back together.

Whilst you have the damper undone it might be a good time to pump the old oil out and put in some fresh sae30. Much easier to do now by pumping it with your hand than by jumping up and down on (or rocking) the front of the car later.

Just did exactly the same job (bushes) on mine, it made quite a difference! After doing it once and seeing how it all fits together the other side only took an hour.

Tom

[bmcecosse]

Pretty much as above - but that pin through the eye may be worn if the rubber bushes have gone west. Fit polyurethane bushes - especially at the top trunnion - but not at the tiebar front mount. Make sure the bump and rebound stops are present and correct - make sure the damper mounting bolts are tight - and refill with SAE 40 oil if you can find it (thats NOT 10W40..) for best damping.

[54woody]

...Fit polyurethane bushes - especially at the top trunnion - but not at the tiebar front mount.

I have a full set of polyurethane bushings, including bushings for the tie bar. Why not use these for the tie bar Roy?

More questions:
What kind of lubrication does one use on the poyurethane bushings?
How does one drain the old oil out of the dampers?

[bmcecosse]

Too tight! You can use ONE - on the outside, but use a rubber bush on the inside to give some compliance.......

[54woody]

...refill with SAE 40 oil if you can find it (thats NOT 10W40..) for best damping.

You're talking about SAE 40 motor oil, correct? Motor oil is OK for internal parts & seal of the dampers? Single grade SAE 40 is not readily available in these parts but I can easily get non-detergent SAE 30 motor oil. I guess that would be my next best choice.

[bmcecosse]

Yes - that would be almost as good. I used EP90 in the dampers of my old Rally Minor - worked well!