USHM3 engine check

[TvdWerf]

Who knows what the weak places are for the side-valve engine?
I have 2 complete engines, and one for parts, not complete.
One complete engine is coming from a barn, was not in use for a lot of years, and could be turned after a little bit force with a big screwdriver on the flywheel.

The other one was leaking, the guy told me, from who I bought the car.
But the Head gasket has a sign of a simple leaking gasket, totally black between coolant and cylinder part.

On the moment I can make a dummy cylinder head, to set the side valve under pressure, and see if he is leaking.
A local engine builder told that 3-6 bar is OK to check.
But, it could save a lot of time, if someone knows where to look for the leaking points.
And what are the possible problems, when you try to repair some leaks.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Making a dummy head is not the problem, on our factory we can use a water jet cutting machine, to make a rubber gasket, and a closed aluminum dummy head.

[mike.perry]

The side valve is generally a robust engine with no specific weak points other than sump gasket sealing and preventing oil drips.
You should purchase good quality head gaskets, sealed around the edges which drop cleanly over the head studs, there are some rubbish gaskets available.
Provided that time is taken to set up the optimum timing, perfomance should be willing if not tyre smoking! The book says TDC and road test so find a good test hill, mark the distributor position and adjust until you find the best setting. On the USHM3 head each graduation is 5 deg. of distributor rotation.

[willcoxg]

Can anyone advice me the best place to purchase a good quality head gasket for this engine. I understand that the quality can be variable. Many thanks

[mike.perry]

Gaskets for Classics sell good quality gasket sets
Could I have the details of your car for the Register please?

[TvdWerf]

I just got the gaskets from Gaskets for Classics in the house.
Before, I will test the engine by using a rubber head gasket, and set 6 bar on the coolant side.
When this is OK, the next step follows.
I have two engines, at least one should be OK, and when I am lucky, both of them.
But first the bodywork, holiday, and something to do for the boss in another time zone

[willcoxg]

Gaskets for Classics sell good quality gasket sets
Could I have the details of your car for the Register please?

Hi Mike

Yes its LXT871

Thanks
Geoff

[TvdWerf]

Mike, I gave the details from my car last year, but did not see this on the list.
my car number: 122061, engine number 123046, Belgium car, with history book, and engine number on the iD plate[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[mike.perry]

Thanks, I have the info on both your cars. The website list gets updated periodically when I have time to cross reference 500 odd UK cars against the DVLA register

[irmscher]

Keeps you out of mischief Mike and doing a great job

[willcoxg]

SMM 80381 January 1951
This car should have had a water pump fitted to the front of the engine and at some stage has been removed and replaced with a blanking plate and a now defunct Smiths ancillary water pump.

Does anyone have an instruction sheet for fitting a water pump to this engine? Mine has the blanking plate and a thermostat housing but no thermostat. How do I alter the plumbing to get the water flow through the pump etc. I am sure I saw instructions on maybe an Australian site but cant find them now.
Geoff

[mike.perry]

[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

A little bed time reading for you

[willcoxg]

Thank for this Mike. This is what I saw on the web...but cant find it now. I intend to fit a water pump to the front of the engine and it is the plumbing to this that is not clear. At present the bottom hose goes into the side of the block but this will have to be blanked off somehow and the bottom hose rerouted to the water pump. I find it frustrating that the service manual nor any parts books show this clearly. Can you suggest a supplier that actually publishes clear parts book pages for the MM.
Do you think that fitting the water pump is worth all the effort just so that I can run this car in hot weather?

Best regards
Geoff

[mike.perry]

Section S of the Workshop Manual has very detailed instructions for the fitting of the water pump and fig S2 shows the fitting of components.
I will however make a couple of comments:-
There is no need to change the fan blades from the dynamo to the water pump pulley, particularly as they will not fit, the PCD is different and they are too long. The water pump blades are different.
The brass pipe section between the water pump and radiator, see photo, is difficult to source, so unless you can make one then you will have to use hoses. If anyone has a part number for a hose to fit I would be grateful.
If all you need a water pump for is to run the car in hot weather then I would say that it is not worth it, the thermosyphon system should be quite adequate provided the rad is in good condition. If your problem is fuel vapourisation then ensure that there is a heat insulating spacer between the carb and manifold and the fuel pipe is insulated or moved away from the exhaust[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Ref an earlier photo of the engine supported on a stand, I would not recommend attaching bolts to the alloy sump as the threads are only metric fine and are easily stripped. Re-tapping the sump threads to 3/8 UNC will give a much sronger thread, especially when tightening the sump to gearbox. No need to drill. The holes in the gearbox can be drilled out to take the larger bolts. This method can also be used on the later dynaomo water jacket mounting