Torsion bar

[Tom and Maria]

Stupid question I'm sure but haven't done it before...

Do I need to release the torsion bar to change my trunnions?

I'm getting a knocking noise when braking so thought I'd replace them (already done tre). Would fork out for new pins too but my budget is tight so hoping the threads aren't worn.

I gather that a kit is available from the usual suppliers which has poly bushes and everything I need bar grease.

Any advice or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom

[bmcecosse]

No need to involve the T bar for that - but you would release it to change the bushes in the eyebolt - and that's a likely place for 'knocking' . Not a problem - takes all of 2 minutes once you are in there at the trunnion anyway.

[Tom and Maria]

Two more questions if I may; how do I release the bar, and will I only need to buy the new bushes for top and bottom or should I get the whole kit?

Thanks,

Tom

[mike.perry]

You really need to check the threads on the swivel pins. I would buy the complete kit and if you do not need it then you have spares for next time.

[bmcecosse]

The top link of the king pin is an absolute essential fitment for poly bushes - makes a huge difference. The eyebolt - a very good idea to fit poly. The tiebars - probably better to retain rubber bushes for a normal road use car - but do check they are in good condition. For the knocking-----check the front damper retaining bolts are tight!

[Tom and Maria]

Luckily the front damper is fine. I'll be doing the trunnions on Saturday (along with sorting leaky brake cylinders and half shaft seals) so will report back on knocking noise afterwards...

Tom

[bmcecosse]

Drain and refill the front dampers with SAE30 (or 40 if you can find it) engine oil. The damper can 'knock' if running on empty......

[Tom and Maria]

It was changing the damper oil from black smelly muck to nice new 20 50 that has made the noise more noticeable. I guess the slightly stiffer action accounts for that.

[bmcecosse]

20 grade oil is too thin! Obviously an improvement on smelly/old etc - but SAE 40 (sold as compressor oil we think) is MUCH better.

[Tom and Maria]

Okay, did the top and bottom trunnions at the weekend and despite finding obvious wear in the lower joint the knocking is still there so I am guessing it is the pin at the body end of the arm at the end of the torsion bar.

To replace this I think it should:

1. Remove the lower trunnions pin and let the tension off.

2. Undo (cut off) the nut at the front end of the pin in question.

3. Take off the front half of the arm.

Here is where I start guessing...

4. knock the rear half of the arm off the splines of the torsion bar, I presume backwards as can't imagine how I would get it past the eye bolt.

5. Undo the eye bolt and replace with a new one along with a new pin.

6. Knock the rear half of the arm back along the torsion bar?

7. Put it all back together.

Am I vaguely right?

Tom

[bmcecosse]

More or less - no 'cutting off' - just unscrew, and slacken the nut securing the eyebolt through the chassis BEFORE you start.

[Tom and Maria]

So the rear half of the arm is knocked back towards the rear of the car?

Tom

[bmcecosse]

Indeed yes (so oil the splines NOW) and don't knock it back so far that it comes off the splines.