Convertible Hood frame screw size

[C6Dave]

Looked through the other posts and did a search but came up blank so.....

On the 2nd cross frame up from the rear window on a convertible hood frame there are 2 screws at each side holding that section of the frame together to the upright from the body fastening.

Anyone know what size they are please.

I have 1 missing and 1 that won't tighten (possibly stripped) on one side so need to source replacements. The ones that are in are Philips head if that helps

Here is a picture of where I mean[frame][/frame]

[Declan_Burns]

I would drill and tap to the next oversize and fit new screws.

[C6Dave]

Yes, but what size are the originals so I know what the next size up is?

Plus 1 hole may actually be OK and the screw is simply missing

[Declan_Burns]

I just checked mine and it is riveted and not screwed.

[C6Dave]

I just checked mine and it is riveted and not screwed.

That's interesting and something I could consider as an alternative.

Thanks for the info.

[C6Dave]

Ended up drilling the hole out slightly to accept a heavy duty pop rivet

Then, cut the head off a screw and attached it with Araldite so it looked the same as the other one, finally gave the srew head a coat of cream paint..................

It would have niggled me no end every time I looked at it if I hadn't added the screw head

[C6Dave]

Well yesterday the pop rivet pulled out and the remaining screw also came out and the final bit of tack welding on the rear edge failed whilst we were putting the hood up in a bot of a gale at Souter Lighthouse.

So today I clamped it back together and drilled through both sections and fitted 2 M6 Countersunk Head machine screws with nuts on the inside edge with anti vibration washers, covered the screw heads with foam as they face the hood itself and repainted cream again.

Hopefully it's going nowhere this time.

Larger self tappers aren't really an answer as the tubing isn't very thick so they don't get a lot of metal to bite into. The countersunk heads were preferable so that there is nothing for the hood fabric to rub on

I may end up getting it welded again along the rear joint as that appears to be where all the strength lays.